Exploring Bali, Indonesia
This magical little island in the heart of Indonesia continues to be one of the world’s hotspot tourist destinations.
What started out fifty years ago as an off-the-beaten-track destination for surfers and backpackers is now a global mecca for slow travellers, digital nomads, and wellness seekers.
Take it as a given that if you go there during the peak season (April–September), you’ll find it to be very crowded—particularly in the more well-known areas of Kuta, Legian, Ubud, Canggu, and Balangan. To escape the crowds, try staying in the more sedate Sanur on the east coast.
Getting There: Bali has direct flights to Ngurah Rai Airport (Denpasar) from all over the world.
Click here to see your travel options to Bali
Note: Tourists entering Bali have the option of the 60-day tourist e-visa, which you can apply for at this government website: https://evisa.imigrasi.go.id/
Or the 30-day e-VOA visa, which you can apply for at this government website: https://evisa.imigrasi.go.id/web/application_voa/
If you complete the e-VOA visa online, passing immigration is simply a matter of scanning your passport. Once you clear through immigration, you’ll be required to fill out an online customs declaration on one of the dedicated computers near the baggage carousels.
Note: This must be done to clear through customs.
Taxis: The best taxi service from the airport is the Bluebird fleet. The price of a transfer from the airport to Sanur is approximately 200k IDR (Indonesian Rupiah). If you’ve got pre-booked accommodation, the hotel or guesthouse may offer you a pick-up service. The price for a private transfer is normally about 250k IDR.
Accommodation in Bali
There are hundreds of hotel and guesthouse options in Sanur. However, if you’re planning a trip in the peak season, make sure to book your accommodation well in advance to avoid disappointment. Use Agoda or Booking.com to secure your room before you arrive.
Budget Accommodation: An excellent choice is Enny’s Homestay, which is centrally located along the main tourist street in Sanur. They have clean, comfortable A/C rooms with hot water for 200k IDR per night.
Click here for booking inquiries
Eat and Drink: Situated next door to Enny’s Homestay, the Paradise Bali Café/Restaurant is an excellent option for Western food and coffee. The doors open at 6:30 am for those wanting an early breakfast or caffeine hit.
Additionally, there’s a well-equipped gym on the premises for personalized workouts and training. To relieve any aches and pains after a day’s outing, they’ve also got an excellent recovery area on the third floor with a plunge pool, ice bath, and sauna.
Click here for the Paradise Balie Cafe
Local Dining: Balinese food is quite tasty, perhaps not as spicy as Thai, and if you eat at local warungs, it’s cheap. Warungs don’t attract the 17% of additional tax and service charges that tourist restaurants are required to tack on to the bill. Meal prices at tourist restaurants are comparable to Thailand.
An excellent local food restaurant (Padang food) is the Sari Bundo Restaurant.
Click this link for the location
Travelling Around Bali
The two most popular options are by rented motorbike or bicycle. There are rental outlets all along the main tourist street of Sanur. Daily rental rates are normally around 100k–150k IDR for motorbikes and around 50k–100k for bicycles. If you’re not keen on negotiating the hectic traffic on the roads on a motorbike or bicycle, Grab motorbike taxis are readily available.
Note: The Paradise Bali Café has a good stock of motorbikes and bicycles for rent.
Note of Caution: The primary problem with Bali is that the roads have not been upgraded to cope with tourist development. Although there’s a tollway linking the airport to both sides of the island, most of the roads through the main tourist areas are little more than single-lane (each way) tracks from yesteryear. The roads are constantly choked with cars, trucks, motorbikes, and bicycles, all dodging and weaving around traffic parked along one side of the road.
Sightseeing Tours: There are hundreds of sightseeing options and activities available around the island of Bali: surfing, scuba diving, volcano sunrise hikes, jungle trekking, waterfall tours, etc. If you’re staying in one of the major tourist centres such as Sanur, getting to some of these sightseeing locations can involve lengthy travel times.
If you don’t want to take the risk of doing it yourself (on a rented motorbike) on Bali’s roads, there are many excellent travel and trekking companies available to choose from. Information about many of the tours can be found at travel booths in the popular tourist areas.
The Best Sightseeing Around Bali
This is an interesting tour which takes you through the lava fields of Batur Crater. All-inclusive tours can be arranged directly with local companies that will pick you up from your hotel and take you up to the village at the crater rim. From there, you’ll transfer into a jeep for the ride down into the crater and then an off-road excursion through the lava fields at the base of Mount Batur.
Note: Mount Batur is a popular location for sunrise hikes. Contact the following tour company for trip details and bookings: Mr. Made. +62 81337200994.
The Volcanic Sand Hills: The tour through the lava fields includes a visit to the volcanic sand hills located on the bottom slope of the mountain. The parking area for the sand hills is where the sunrise hikes begin. You can see the trail heading up the mountain from the parking area.
To get a fantastic view over the surrounding terrain and the crater lake, hike up to the top of the big sand hill next to the parking area.
Note: Even though it’s only a 100-meter elevation, the loose volcanic sand makes it a tougher undertaking.
The Lava Field: This area is approximately two kilometres further downhill from the sand hills. The terrain is mostly flat, with jagged lava rocks throughout. The jeep follows an established track through the middle of the lava field and stops in the centre for sightseers to get photos and video.
There’s no high point in the lava field to climb up on to. Most sightseers will stand on the cab of the jeeps to get an elevated look at the surroundings.
Note: The lava field tour is normally not part of the Mt. Batur sunrise hike.
Sightseeing Around The Terunyan Cemetery
This sightseeing location may not be for everyone, as there are usually several decomposing corpses at the site. Additionally, there’s a pile of skulls which are reminiscent of the Killing Fields in Phnom Penh. Simply said, it’s not for the squeamish.
Another barrier to getting to this site is the cost of the boat ride across the lake. The prices are seriously expensive for the twenty-minute ride each way. If you’re in a group it’s doable, but as a solo traveller, the 800k IDR fee is something which needs to be considered before handing over your cash.
Is the cemetery worth looking at? I would say that if you’re not doing a YouTube video, then probably not. It’s a small site at which you’ll probably be there for no longer than fifteen minutes.
To try and bolster the trip, they’ll take you to Terunyan Village first to look at the Hindu temple. The people who live there are descended from the original inhabitants of Bali. What was notable is their larger stature than the Balinese people you see around the tourist areas of the island.
Note: The departure point for the boats is directly across the road from the Alfamart Lakeview convenience store.
Click here for directions to the lake
The Kintamani to Ubud Bicycle Tour
The Kintamani to Ubud Bicycle Tour is an excellent slow sightseeing experience which takes you through some amazing mountain landscapes of Bali. The tour starts at Kintamani Village on the rim of the Batur Caldera and follows laneways and small roads all the way to Ubud.
The best time to do this bicycle tour is between May and October, the dry season. During the rainy season, from November to April, there’s a higher probability of being hit by a downpour. Additionally, during the peak rainy season months (January and February), the terrain towards the upper part of the ride (Kintamani) is often fogged in and can be quite cold. This makes sightseeing a bit hit and miss, trying to time it between rain fronts and a misty landscape.
Doing the Tour: The best way to do this tour is on an organised trip with a guide. A good recommendation is to use a tour company which specialises in cycling tours, such as Bali Bike – Baik Tour, and who knows the routes from Kintamani to Ubud.
Click this link for more information
Getting There: As mentioned, the starting point is the top of the volcanic caldera which overlooks Lake Batur.
If you’re staying in areas outside Ubud, you’ll need to arrange transportation to the Ubud Ebike Tour office. The best option for this is Grab or Bluebird taxis. Once you arrive at the Bali Bike office in Ubud, you’ll transfer into one of their vehicles with the guide and the bicycles for the drive up to the rim of the caldera.
Note: The starting point is next to the Lake View Restaurant. Before starting the descent, you’re given the option of having a coffee in the restaurant and checking out the view over the lake.
The route, for the majority of the descent to Ubud, tends to stick to smaller laneways and off the busier roads. This is excellent in terms of rider safety and avoids the potential risk of collision with a vehicle on the narrow, congested roads in the area. The ride usually lasts about two hours and is downhill most of the way to Ubud Village.
The scenery on the way is fantastic, as the guide leads you along the small laneways which weave through traditional villages and rice paddies on the outer slopes of the mountain.
Ubud: Once you reach Ubud Village, you’ll partake of an Indonesian lunch before returning to your hotel. Note: If you’ve organised your own transport from another area on the island, it’s probably a good idea to pay for the round trip. The local taxi drivers will normally wait for you at the tour finish point.
Religion: The predominant religion of Bali is Hinduism, which is at odds with the rest of Indonesia, where Islam is the overwhelmingly preferred religion. As you travel around the island, the influence of Hinduism can be seen everywhere in the architecture of the temples which dot the landscape. For the Balinese who have money, their homes are built to include this Hindu architecture. Many houses have Garuda or Hanuman-styled statues flanking the entry gates.
If you spend some time talking with a local who speaks reasonably well, it soon becomes apparent that the Hinduism of Bali is infused with a local folk religion. The Balinese spend a lot of time trying to appease the perceived evil spirits.
Incense is burned and small banana leaf baskets with flowers are placed at the gates of most houses to persuade the evil spirits to become good before entering. Many of the footpaths around the villages have small flights of stairs to break the flow of the evil spirits along a pathway.
To an outsider, this may all seem like superstitious mumbo jumbo. However, to the Balinese, it’s a very serious part of life.
Visiting the Uluwatu Temple
Another excellent outing is a tour to Uluwatu Temple and Lookout. This is a fantastic sightseeing location at the southern tip of Bali and provides some great views along a cliffline. There’s a Hindu temple there and, as such, the locals consider this to be an important religious site.
Note: If you’re wearing shorts, you’ll be required to put on a sarong before stepping through the gates.
Getting There: Renting a motorbike and riding there yourself is an option if you’re on a tight budget. However, if you’re staying in Sanur, it can take up to two hours to get to the Uluwatu Temple car park. Even though the distance is relatively short (only 31 km), the traffic on the narrow, congested roads can make it a tough drive, particularly coming down the Jimbaran–Uluwatu Road.
If you want to avoid the stress of negotiating your way through traffic jams, an easier option is to just hire a local taxi for the round trip.
Click this link for directions from Sanur
Entry Fee: Once you arrive at the car park, the staff will let you know if you’ll need to rent a sarong to enter the temple grounds. There’s also an entry fee of 50,000 IDR for foreigners.
Cliff Top Pathway: There are two Hindu temples within the temple grounds, but the main attraction is the 500-metre pathway which runs along the edge of the cliff line. This pathway provides sightseers with spectacular views down to the water and along the coastline.
The pathway is completely safe, with a solid safety barrier along its entire length.
Mount Abang Trekking
Mount Abang is the second-highest peak in Bali. It is located along the eastern edge of Lake Batur and directly opposite Mount Batur.
The trek to the peak is rated as moderate to difficult. This peak sees fewer tourists than the more popular Mt. Batur due to the arduous nature of the hike. However, the three-hour hike to the top is well worth it. The views across to Batur Volcano are spectacular.
Click this link for the location of Mount Abang
Getting There: Regardless of where you’re staying in Bali, you’ll need to make your way to the Mount Abang Ticket Office to start the hike. If you’re staying in Sanur, a good option for transportation is to hire a local taxi for the day to take you to the ticket office and starting point.
Mr. Ketut is highly recommended. He is a knowledgeable driver who speaks good English. His WhatsApp contact is: +62 8174721863. The price for the round trip to the Mt. Abang ticket office is 800k IDR (approximately 50 USD).
Click this link for the location of the Mount Abang ticket office
On-Site: The ticket office is located on Google Maps, and registration and entry payment are required before starting the hike. If you’re an experienced hiker and in good shape, then it is possible to make the hike without a guide. However, for less experienced hikers, a guide is recommended.
Mr. Wayan is an excellent and knowledgeable local guide with many years’ experience hiking Mount Abang. His WhatsApp contact is: +62 85792088467. You can contact Mr. Wayan to arrange a meeting time at the ticket office. The price for a solo hike is 810k IDR (50 USD).
Doing the Hike: There’s a map on the back wall of the ticket office which shows the route from the starting point to the summit. The hiking trail distance is approximately 4.5 km, and the elevation is 800 meters. The average time to complete the out-and-back hike is 6–7 hours. Time variation will depend on how long you spend on the summit.
The distance from the ticket office to the trailhead is approximately two km. Your taxi will transport you to the trailhead. The trail can be divided into three sections:
The First Section: This is the initial 2 km from the trailhead to position one (the first temple). This section is relatively flat with a few rises and dips before getting to the start of section two.
The Second Section: After taking a drinks break at the first temple location and enjoying the great view across the lake, it’s a short distance to the start of what is arguably the toughest section of the ascent. You’ll know you’re there because the terrain suddenly gets much steeper and there’s a knotted rope lying along the trail. Note: This is more for the descent.
Section two is 1.5 km of rugged, potholed trail which will have you breathing hard by the time you arrive at position two (the second temple). To make it even more demanding, there are also tree roots protruding into the dirt track which you need to climb over. At a steady pace, it will take approximately one hour to negotiate this second section.
The temple at position two is in a beautifully scenic location which is heavily forested. The trees begin to change from the tropical broadleaf type to pine. Look closely and you’ll see lots of moss growing on the tree trunks.
Click the following link to see a highlights video of the Mount Abang trek:
The Third Section: This final one km stretch to the summit, while not as demanding as section two, is challenging due to the mud and slippery surface. Although not quite as steep as section two, you need to take your time with the climb to avoid slipping. There are plenty of handholds along the trail in the form of protruding tree roots to assist with the ascent.
The Summit: Arriving at the top is a welcome relief after what is quite an arduous three-hour ascent. There’s also a Balinese stone temple on the summit. Getting clear views across Lake Batur is a bit hit and miss, as it tends to be clearer in the mornings. Conditions often cloud over towards midday and into the afternoon.
Note: This is a major reason why most hikers opt to do the sunrise hike. However, if you don’t want to make the ascent in darkness, a good option is to start at around 06:00 am.
Summary: Mount Abang is a challenging hike. The descent, due to the steepness of the upper trail and the mud, is probably more difficult than the ascent. Take a hiking pole to help with balance and avoid slippage. Additionally, use proper hiking shoes with tread for better grip. Finally, if you’re not an experienced hiker, use a local guide for a safer experience.
Ijen Crater Blue Fire Tour
Mount Ijen is a semi-active volcano located in eastern Java, approximately 34 km from Banyuwangi City. It’s a popular sightseeing location which attracts many international and local tourists. The primary drawcards are the blue fire and the sulfur mining activities which occur near the crater lake.
A tour to Ijen Crater involves a significant amount of uphill hiking and a challenging descent to the crater lake. The hiking component could be classed as moderately challenging. However, what pushes it into the difficult class are the clouds of sulfur fumes which are encountered during the descent to the crater lake. When this is combined with the steep, rocky trail, the difficulty level is significantly increased due to the requirement of wearing a gas mask and goggles.
Note: Without these two safety items, the local guides will not allow anyone to descend to the crater lake.
Getting There: If you’re already in Java, then organising a tour from Banyuwangi is relatively easy. Simply contact one of the local operators specialising in Ijen tours. An excellent choice in this regard is Ijen Expeditions. Their prices are very reasonable for group or solo travellers, and they have experienced, knowledgeable guides.
From Bali: Ijen Expeditions can also organise overnight (24-hour) tours for people staying in Bali. However, due to the small, congested roads in Bali, this option includes a significant amount of travel time. It takes approximately 8 hours each way, including the ferry crossing from Gilimanuk to Banyuwangi.
Note: The prices for a tour from Bali are door to door. Pick-up time is normally 18:00 (6:00 pm).
Click this link for booking inquiries
Doing the Tour: Once you’ve committed to doing the tour, you’ll be given a pick-up time at your hotel. If you’re staying in Banyuwangi, this is normally around 23:00–23:30. Before heading up to the start point, you will be required to do a medical check—blood pressure and resting pulse rate—to determine your fitness for the hike.
On-Site: Once you arrive at the Ijen parking area and starting point, you’ll be greeted by your guide for the hike. He will issue you the gas mask and goggles you’ll need to complete the outing safely. The parking area also has several small restaurants where you can buy snacks, coffee, and tea. There are also toilet facilities on site.
The Ascent to the Crater Rim
This is the first stage of the tour. It’s a 3.5 km hike to the crater rim
- The first 1 km is an easy slope.
- The second 2 km is steeper and more difficult. Near the top, the trail narrows and zigzags to the summit.
- The final 500 meters is mostly flat going.
At various points along the trail there are rest stops (huts) with seating selling coffee, tea, snacks, and bottled water. For anyone who runs out of energy, or who doesn’t have the stamina to complete the hike to the crater rim, transportation in the form of two-wheeled carts with seats is available. Two haulers are assigned to each cart to push and pull you to the top.
Note: To be able to see the blue fire, the ascent hike normally starts no later than 02:00.
The Crater Rim: The trail along the crater rim is mostly flat going and allows recovery time before the descent into the crater. If the wind is blowing across the crater lake (from the west), you’ll already be able to smell the sulfur on the crater rim. If this is the case, you’ll be asked to don your gas mask before starting the descent.
Note: If you’re only doing the sunrise tour, you won’t make the descent into the crater.
Descent into the Crater: This is the second stage of the tour and, as mentioned, the most challenging— not the least because you’ll be descending in the dark. The trail down to the crater lake is steep and rock-strewn. If the sulfur clouds are being blown up the crater face, the challenge goes up significantly due to the requirement to wear a gas mask and goggles. This requirement markedly impedes vision.
Under normal circumstances, the descent to the crater lake will take a minimum of 30–40 minutes. Note: For additional safety, use a hiking pole during the descent.
At the Crater Lake: The Blue Fire is located at the lowest point of the trail, near the crater lake. As mentioned, you can only see this when it’s dark (at night). Normally it’s not visible after 05:30, when dawn breaks and it begins to get light.
The Blue Fire is a product of burning sulfur and at Ijen it looks like a small stream flowing downhill. Getting close to take photos or video is extremely hazardous, as toxic sulfur clouds are constantly swirling about in the area. Even if you’re wearing a gas mask and goggles, you’ll still probably inhale sulfur fumes and have burning eyes.
Trying to do this in the dark makes it even more of a challenge because you’ll have to turn off your headlamp or flashlight to see the Blue Fire.
Note: There are only two places in the world where Blue Fire can be seen. One is at Ijen; the other is somewhere in Iceland.
The Sulfur Miners: As soon as it’s light, the sulfur miners begin their day’s work. The sulfur mining area is approximately 50 meters above the Blue Fire zone. You’ll need to hike back up the trail to see them at work.
The miners have installed piping to funnel the liquid sulfur to a flat area where it is set into a solid mass. Once it is solidified, the miners use crowbars to break it off into manageable chunks. While they’re doing this, clouds of toxic sulfur fumes are swirling about everywhere.
Once enough of the chunks are stacked up, the miner will then begin loading up his carry baskets. They have two baskets suspended off the end of a long pole, which they support on their shoulders during their long climb up to the crater rim. According to my guide, the combined total weight of these baskets is around 60–70 kg.
These miners are probably doing one of the world’s most hazardous jobs and, even though they’re wearing gas masks and goggles, the sulfur must eventually take a toll on their health. The reward for such difficult and hazardous work is just 1500 IDR per kilo.
