About The Thakhek Loop
The Thakhek Loop is an off the beaten track travel experience and is gaining notoriety as one of the best motor bike touring trips in South East Asia. In years gone by it was considered an arduous undertaking, due to some long stretches of dirt road along hwy 1E. That is no longer the case. As of 2016, all roads on hwy 1E are sealed.
Distance: The full distance, including the side trip to KONG LOR CAVE, is 445 km. With that in mind I would recommend 4 days to complete the trip to enable a more satisfying, unhurried sightseeing experience. Additionally if you’re inexperienced on a motorbike, I suggest allowing more time.
Both seasons: It is now possible to do the trip comfortably during the wet (monsoon) season. Having completed it in both seasons, it’s my considered opinion the end of the wet season (October) is actually the best time to do the loop due to the amazingly scenic rice fields (just before the harvest) along the karst corridor between Na Hin and Lak Sao.
Circuit time: Some information sources on the web will say the Thakhek Loop can be completed in 3 days. While that is true, you will definitely feel rushed and not have much time to enjoy the attractions on the way. For example, a trip through Kong Lor Cave, followed by a visit to the ROCK VIEWPOINT ZIPLINE CIRCUIT will encompass a full day. In this regard an extra night at Na Hin Village is recommended before undertaking the ride back to Thakhek. At a minimum, this will make your loop trip a 4 day/3 night circuit.
Tours: Additionally, the POSEY THALANG HOMESTAY offers 2 – 3 day trekking tours into the NAKAI NAM THUEN NATIONAL PARK. Anyone committing to one of these tours will add more time to their loop duration. With all the tours available, it’s not inconceivable to spend a week, or more, on the loop.
Click this link for a full Google Map of the Thakhek Loop
Getting to Thakhek
In Laos: Thakhek has no airport, so road travel is the only means of getting there. If you’re already in Laos, it’s a six hour bus ride South on Highway # 13 from Vientiane, or a three hour ride North on Highway # 13 from Savanakhet. Daily buses to Thakhek depart from the Southern Bus Terminal, in Vientiane. From Savanakhet the only transportation option available is a minivan from the city bus terminal.
Coming from Cambodia: LAO AIRLINES has direct flights from Siem Reap to Vientiane. You’ll then need to take a bus down Hwy # 13 to Thakhek.
Coming from Thailand: the most direct route is to travel to NAKHON PHANOM, and then take a bus across FRIENDSHIP BRIDGE TWO, into Laos. For travel options from Bangkok to Nakhon Phanom, click the link below: Crossing the border:
Crossing to Laos: Once you arrive at Nakhon Phanom airport it’s simply a matter of taking a taxi to the Nakhon Phanom Bus Station, and then boarding a bus to Thakhek. Buses depart 4 times daily, between 9 am and 5 pm, and the trip is currently 70 THB each way. The travel time is normally 2 hours from the Nakhon Phanom (Thailand) bus station, to the Thakhek (Laos) bus station.
Immigration: The journey also includes stops at immigration check points at each end of the bridge. A one month entry visa for Laos can be purchased for approx 30 USD when you arrive on the Laotian side of the bridge. NOTE: it’s advisable to have the 30 USD in the correct amount to speed things up. One passport photo is also needed for the visa.
Tuk-tuk transport: After arriving at the Thakhek bus station you will then need to get transport to the traveler’s accommodation area of town. This is approximately 5 km from the bus station and the only transport that is readily available is the three wheeled tuk-tuk. Be aware the correct fare is 100,000 Laotian Kip but the tuk-tuk drivers will often quote double, or triple, upon initial inquiry.
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Thakhek City – General Information
About: Thakhek is a laid back town, on the edge of the Mekong River, in Central Laos. It is the capital of Khammouane Province and also the start and finish point for the loop trip. Keep in mind the main traveler’s area, along the river front, is a five km ride from the bus station. This is where most of the guesthouses, restaurants, cafés and roadside vendors are located. It’s also the place where motor-bikes can be rented for the Loop trip, and day trips to the nearby surrounds of Thakhek.
Accommodation: Most of the hotels, guesthouses, and restaurants are situated along the riverfront and around the town center. A popular choice is the INTHIRA HOTEL, which offers comfortable rooms, good food, free WIFI, and a relaxed ambiance. For booking inquiries click the link below:
The river front: The riverfront has many roadside vendors, and open air beer bars overlooking the Mekong, and is just a just a short walk from the Inthira as well. For those wanting budget accommodation in the town center, KGB GUESTHOUSE is another option.
Motorbike Rentals: There is two shops in the town centre area offering motorbikes for rent. Most bikes (scooters) are in the 100 – 150 CC range, are well maintained and cost approximately 100,000 Laotian Kip per day. There is also larger capacity dirt bikes (Honda CRF 250 CC) available if you want to get off road. If you want a motorbike which is well maintained, and without mechanical issues, then MAD MONKEY Motorbikes is the best option. The owner is German and he runs his business to a high standard.
Click the following link for the location of Mad Monkey Motorbike Rentals
Where to eat: There are two excellent restaurant choices in Thakhek: The Shong fang khong Thai food restaurant and The Six Friends outdoor restaurant. The Shong Fang Khong is situated on the town square and although the more expensive of the two, it serves very good Thai food. The Six Friends Restaurant is an outdoor eatery, located one block south of the town square, which opens at 6 PM each evening and serves good portions of Lao Food for just 10,000 LAK.
Day trips from Thakhek: For those who don’t feel up to the demands of the multi-day Loop Trip, there are a number of sites – mainly caves – within easy reach of Thakhek, which can be visited in a single day. Hire a motorbike for the day from one of the vendors, grab a map from their tour desk, and ride out to the nearby sites.
Organised Tours: GREEN DISCOVERY LAOS are a Laotian tour operator who specialise in adventure activities such as kayaking, caving, trekking, and rock climbing. Prior to COVID they had an office at the Inthira Thakhek Hotel. It has since been closed. Their nearest sales office is at the ROCK VIEWPOINT Adventure Base, approximately 135 km north of Thakhek. If you’re interested in doing a tour with Green Discovery Laos, click on the link below:
The Thakhek Loop, Stage One
The normal route for the Thakhek Loop is to go in an anti-clockwise direction. The primary reason for this is to avoid the potentially hazardous long ride north on Hwy 13, at the beginning of your trip. This road is the main highway to Vientiane and as such has a constant flow of articulated trucks running to and from Vietnam.
Day one: Thakhek to Thalang
- Distance = 94 km (via hwy 12 and hwy 1E)
- Approximate travel time = 6 hours
From Thakhek head due east on hwy 12, then turn left at Gnommalath Junction on to hwy 1E. Head north on hwy 1E to Thalang. Click here for directions from Thakhek to Thalang
Day one Thakhek Loop sightseeing attractions:
- Cave Alley – along hwy 12;
- Golden Rabbit Viewpoint – (at Gnommalath Junction);
- Nakai Plateau Ascent – along hwy 1E (between Gnommalath and Nakai Township);
- The Orchid Trail – along hwy 1E (approximately 12 km north of Nakai Township);
- Nam Thuen Dam – along hwy 1E (on the ride to Thalang).
Cave Alley – Along Highway 12
The caves along Hwy 12, between Thakhek and Mahaxay, are on what is known locally as Cave Alley. In order, these caves are:
- Chang (Elephant) Cave
- Pa Sueam Cave & Turtle Lake
- Xieng Liap Cave
- Nang Aen Cave
- Pa Chan Cave
Of these, only Nang Aen Cave has an entry fee. Pa Chan cave is 23 km off Hwy 12 and is difficult to locate. Coming from Thakhek, Chang Cave, Xieng Liap Cave, and Nang Aen Cave are on the right and only a short distance from the Hwy.
Exploring Cave Alley: Understandably, these three caves are the most popular as they absorb only minimum of time to access and explore. On the left side, another cave which is very popular is Buddha Cave. However, Tham Pa Fa (the Buddha Cave) is a religious site and is definitely not an adventure experience. For this reason I have not listed it as one of the sites to visit. It is a small cave, crammed with Buddha Statues, and you cannot take photos once inside.
Elephant Cave: This small but interesting cave is the nearest to Thakhek, and is relatively easy to access. It also appears to be an important religious site for the locals.
Pa Sueam Cave & Turtle Lake: If you go down to Buddha Cave, a better sightseeing experience is to make the short hike around to Turtle Lake and Pa Sueam Cave, approximately 200 meters further on. The trail to Turtle Lake is on the far side of the Buddha cave parking area. Ride down the 800 meter trail, keep to the left, and then park your bike at the wooden bridge. Cross the bridge and then walk the short distance to Turtle Lake and Pa Sueam Cave beyond. The cave has a stream running through it, which feeds the lake.
Pa Sueam Cave: Pa Sueam Cave is water filled and penetrating its 400 meter length involves a good deal of swimming. There’s also a lot of sharp rocks under the water so wearing long pants and solid footwear is strongly advised, to avoid cuts and grazes. This site is what’s called a blind cave. There’s no upstream entrance. You exit at the point you entered.
Four caves in one day: If you depart Thakhek early enough (8.00 am) it is entirely possible to visit four caves – Chang Cave, Pa Sueam Cave, Xieng Liap Cave, Nang Aen Cave – along hwy 12, and then ride to Thalang. However, if you can’t depart Thakhek by 8.00 am at the latest, you probably won’t have enough time to visit all four. If you’re tight on time, the best two caves along Hwy 12 are Xieng Liap and Nang Aen Caves.
Xieng Liap Cave: Is located along Hwy 12, and 14 km from traveler central in Thakhek. If you’re on a tight schedule I’d recommend just doing Xieng Liap Cave and Nang Aen Cave as both are close to the Hwy, and easy to access. Coming from Thakhek, Xieng Liap is on the right and only 100 meters off the Hwy.
Cave entrances: From the turn off there’s a short track down to a building, approx. 100 meters from the road. Behind the building there’s a narrow trail (approximately 200 meters) to the cave entrances. During the dry season this trail is good enough to take a motorbike over. There’s a small parking area near the cave entrances and then a short walk down into the river bed. This side of the cave has two entrances and both are accessed from the river bed. Note: Access from these two entrances normally involves crossing (wading) the river.
Green Climbers Camp: The third entrance (the most distant from the road) is on the backside of the cave, and must be accessed from the Green Discovery Climbers Camp. This is the more difficult option as permission is needed to pass through the camp. Xieng Liap is an easy cave to access and explore (only 300 meters in length), and is worth an hour or two of your time from the Loop Trip. Note: there’s no entry fee for this cave.
Nang Aen Cave: Is 19 km from traveler central in Thakhek, and 5 km further along Hwy 12 from Xieng Liap Cave. The turn off is on the right, and there’s a directional sign approximately 100 meters before the turn-off.
Two sightseeing options for this cave: 1. The front section only; 2. The additional boat tour, which takes in the much more spectacular rear section. The entry fee for the front section is 50k Laotian Kip (LAK). Pay 100k LAK (an additional 50k LAK) and you will be able to do the entire cave system, which includes the boat trip, and the walk through the rear section (which is actually the highlight of the cave). Note: A minimum of three paying customers is needed for a boat tour. Life jackets are included with the ticket price, and must be worn at all times while in the boat. Additionally, the boats are small so unnecessary movement should be kept to a minimum to avoid capsizing.
Cave Lighting: The river tunnel has internal lighting all the way through so getting photos or video with your phone isn’t a problem. Nang Aen Cave is a must do stop, on the Thakhek Loop. The following short video features highlights of the Nang Ene Cave Tour:
Pa Chan Cave: After visiting Pa Sueam Cave you can continue on to Pa Chan Cave. To do so you’ll need to go back to the dirt road T-Junction. Instead of turning right, and going back to Hwy 12, take the left turn. Approximately 5 km on from the T-Junction, you’ll come to another junction (cross roads) at a village. Turn left and continue on through the remote terrain until you come to a sign-post which indicates a turn off (on the right) to a local Stupa. Take that and continue to the Stupa.
Cave Entrance: The final 2 km (from the stupa to the cave entrance) is over an open landscape of crisscrossed tracks heading in the general direction of some limestone cliffs. Keep heading towards the cliffs and as you get closer the apex of the cave entrance will come into view (above the tree-line). When you see it just keep heading in that direction and eventually you’ll find a trail skirting the small river which flows from the cave.
Large Tunnel: Pa Chan Cave is a large tunnel of approximately 600 meters in length. There’s a walkway through to the far side but a torch should be used to allow for safe exploration. At the upstream entrance ( cave rear( there’s a deeper river pool where a refreshing swim can be taken, before heading back.
Note: On the left side of the cave, as you enter, there’s a stairway up to a cement platform which has some Buddha statues. This location is a religious area which the locals often come to for worship.
Gnommalath to Thalang – Along Highway 1E
Gnommalat Junction is where you turn left off Hwy 12, and head north on Hwy 1E. It’s a few km before the start of the ascent on to the Nakai Plateau and an important marker on the Loop trip. If you miss the turn off you’ll be heading towards the Vietnam border.
Golden Rabbit Viewpoint: The only sightseeing attraction of significance at Gnommalat is the Golden Rabbit Viewpoint (Pha Katai Viewpoint).
Golden Rabbit Sunrise: The sunrise view is spectacular, but to see this you’ll need to spend one night at a guesthouse in Gnommalat. A recommended accommodation option in Gnommalath (nearby the Golden Rabbit Viewpoint) is the
The Nakai Plateau: A few km beyond Gnommalat Junction, the steep winding ascent up to the Nakai Plateau begins. There is some spectacular jungle covered terrain en-route, but care should be observed at all times due to some of the precipitous drop offs. After a few km of twisting and turning, the road eventually levels out at the top of the plateau. Nakai is a reasonable size town and appears to be the government headquarters for the Nam Thuen Dam project.
The Nakai Plateau
Sanseda Viewpoint: Approximately 12 km north of Nakai Township is a hike to a great viewpoint, which overlooks the wide expanse of the Dam. The attraction is known as the Orchid Path, apparently because at the right time of year (spring) the trail is inundated with wild orchids.
Start Point: There is a small parking area, with information billboards, just a few meters off the highway (on the left if coming from Thakhek). The start of the 870 meter hike up to the viewpoint, begins right next to the parking area. The hike is not difficult and at various points along the trail there’s indicating signs to keep you going in the right direction.
Sanseda Lookout: The lookout is called Sanseda and there’s small shelter, with a roof and bench seats, to relax on while you take in the water filled landscape below.
Continuing on to Thalang: From the Orchid Path location it’s approximately 16 km to Thalang Village, the first overnight stop on the loop trip. The road skirts the edge of the Nam Thuen Dam and offers some nice views of the water filled terrain to you weave through an undulating landscape. Note: In the late afternoon riders should be on the lookout for wandering herds of water buffalo, particularly in the rainy season. For one reason or another they like to gather on the roads and are significant hazard for an unwary motorbike rider.
Thalang Village – General Information
Thalang Village: This is traditionally the first overnight stop on the loop trip. It sits approximately at the mid-point of the Nakai Plateau and is at the edge of a huge lake, formed when the dam was built. The lake’s surface is broken by thousands of the dead trees, the remnants of forests which were inundated by the rising waters. The water-filled landscape is visually impressive.
Thalang Accommodation: The two most popular guesthouses in Thalang are the Sabaidee Thalang Guesthouse, and the Posey Thalang Guesthouse. Both are bungalow style accommodation with fan only rooms and lukewarm showers.
National Park Tours: As of February 2024 the Posey Thalang Guesthouse is now offering 2 – 3 day hiking tours into the NAKAI NAM THUEN NATIONAL PARK, on the Eastern side of the dam.
The sunrise boat tour: The highlight of a stay at Thalang has to be the sunrise boat tour. If you’re staying at either of the guesthouses, the staff can arrange a tour for you. Prices are 100,000 LAK per person and a minimum of three passengers is normally required. The departure time is just before 6 am and the tour lasts for approximately 1.5 hours.
Stage Two – Thalang to Kongh Lor
Thalang to Na Hin: Head north on hwy 1E, from Thalang to Lak Sao. At Lak Sao, turn left onto hwy 8 and head due west to Na Hin Village.
- Distance: 107 km (via hwy 1E & hwy 8)
- Approximate travel time: 6 hours (allowing for stops on the way).
Stage two sightseeing attractions:
- Flooded Forest Viewpoint: hwy 1E (16 km north of Thalang);
- Sandstone Buddha Carvings: hwy 1E (26 km north of Thalang);
- Wat Pa Pha Nang Rong Buddhist Temple: hwy 8 (5 km west of Lak Sao);
- Dragon Cave: hwy 8 (20 km west of Lak Sao);
- Cool Springs: hwy 8 (38 km west of Lak Sao);
- The Bomb Boats: hwy 8 (Namkading River – 38 km west of Lak Sao)
- The Rock Zip-line Circuit: Hwy 8 (8 km west of Na Hin)
The Flooded Forest Viewpoint: Approximately 13 km north of Thalang is a roadside stop called the Flooded Forest Viewpoint. It’s an elevated stretch of road where the waters of the dam can be seen on both sides. On the western side dead trees, like white skeletons, protrude from the wide expanse of water.
Sandstone Buddha Carvings: Another 10 km further on, Buddha images have been sculptured in to the sandstone rock along the edges of the road. Note: These carving are right next to the road.
The Spirit Wailing Wall – Along Highway 8
Lak Sao to Na Hin: The 65 km drive between Lak Sao and Na Hin is arguably the most scenic stretch of the entire loop. Especially so towards the end of the rainy season when the vibrant green vegetation, topping the karst geography, forms a nice backdrop to the yellow rice fields. As you get closer to Lak Sao a spectacular wall of limestone will come into view. If the sun is out it will be lit up and is visible from a few km away.
The Spirit Wailing Wall: Towards the end of the karst wall, where it tapers off towards Lak Sao, there’s an interesting attraction worth looking at. Perched up on a small hill (directly under the high cliffs) is Wat Pa Pha Nang Rong Buddhist Temple. The location is approximately 4 km west of Lak Sao (on hwy 8). Note: On loop maps it’s indicated as the Spirit Wailing Wall. According to local information the sound of the wind whistling along the karst wall makes an eerie sound, like a wailing ghost.
The Peak: To the right of the upper most temple building is a limestone peak, with a flag at its apex. If you are fit and have rock climbing experience, this climb won’t be too difficult. If you are out of shape, I wouldn’t recommend trying to make the ascent. There is three vertical sections where the ascent is definitely rock climbing grade. It will take approximately one hour to get up to the flag on the peak. Once there, the view is impressive.
The Dragon Cave – Along Highway 8
Dragon Cave: This is a small but visually impressive cave on hwy 8, between Lak Sao and Ban Na Hin. Located 30 km from Lak Sao, it’s normally visited on day two of the Thakhek Loop trip. The cave is easy to access as the parking area is just off the highway. After a long ride from Thalang it’s a good place to take a break as there’s also a restaurant on the premises. The entrance fee is 20k LAK. For directions, click the link below:
Cave Tour: To enter the cave take the cement stairway down to the entrance area. After squeezing through the narrow entry point, a cement path follows the stream and eventually leads to a low hanging rock ceiling. This runs for approximately 50 meters. You will need to duck your head as you make your way across the sand to the other side. The cave then opens up spectacularly to reveal a large room full of impressive formations, illuminated by an array of colorful lights.
The primary feature: Is the large drapery formation in the front area of the main cave room. Dragon cave isn’t as big as Nang Ene Cave but it’s got some nice formations, particularly in the rear section, and is well worth an hour of your time. The following short video features highlights of the Dragon cave:
The Cool Pool – Along Highway 8
About: Cool Pool is one of the most popular attractions on the loop trip. The turn off is a further 18 km beyond the Dragon Cave. There’s a large advertising sign on the right of hwy 8. From there, it’s an additional 4.5 km of dirt road to the parking area. As of February 2024 the entry fee is 40k LAK per person. Visitors are also required to pay a motorbike parking fee of 10k LAK. Note: In the rainy season the track to the Cool Pool is extremely difficult to negotiate and many sections are flooded with large pools of water. If you want to visit the in the rainy season, it’s highly recommended to rent an off road bike.
The primary attraction: Is the clear, turquoise waters of the Cool Pool. It’s a spring fed natural pool where Looper’s can cool off after the heat of the 90 km ride from Thalang. It’s a great spot to relax and chill out, while swimming and taking in the surrounding scenery.
Note: Something to keep in mind, if you’re planning to make it to KONG LOR on the same day, is you still have a 60 km ride in front of you. Between Cool Pool and Na Hin there’s a difficult section of mountainous road to negotiate, followed by the 42 km stretch to Kong Lor Village. This road has some hazardous stretches of dirt (10 km before Kong Lor) and is a difficult ride in the dark. Leave Cool Pool by 4 PM to arrive in good time.
The Bomb Boats – Along Highway 8
The Bomb Boats: An interesting attraction, worth a few minutes of your time is on the Namkading River, next to Ta Bak Village. Pull over at the western end of the bridge and, below on the river, you’ll see the BOMB BOATS. According to informed sources these boats are actually constructed from auxiliary fuel tanks, from US Airforce planes, which were dropped after the fuel was used. They fuel tanks are much longer than the cluster bomb casings that are often seen in this area of Laos.
Mountainous section: Unfortunately, the 15 km section of mountainous road, between Ta Bak and Na Hin, was blocked for four months after a massive landslide during the wet season. As of February 2024 this section is now cleared, albeit with mounds of dirt and debris piled along the road in many places. Loopers should ride with care when using this section of the road.
Na Hin Village: Na Hin Village is nestled in against an impressive wall of jungle covered, limestone peaks. Once you come off the above-mentioned mountainous section, this is the turn-off point down to Kong Lor Cave. Most loopers tend to ride through Na Hin in their enthusiasm to get down to Kong Lor. If you decide to stay overnight a good accommodation choice is the SANHAK GUESTHOUSE. Click here for booking inquiries
Kong Lor Village – General Information
ABOUT: Kong Lor Cave is probably the premier attraction of the THAKHEK LOOP TOUR. At 7.5 km end to end, it’s one of the largest river tunnels in Southeast Asia. Tours through the cave are done in a motorized boat which takes you all the way through the cave to the remote encampment beyond the upstream entrance. KONG LOR VILLAGE, which is located approximately 1 km from the downstream entrance of the cave, has around a dozen homestays and guesthouses, and numerous restaurants, for those planning an overnight stay
Accommodation: A popular choice is the Kong Lor Eco-Lodge. Click here for booking inquiries
A Regional highlight: A trip through Kong Lor Cave is one of the highlights of travel in Laos, and one of the best cave tours in the region. It’s also one of the regions longest fully traversable cave rivers; the distance from the downstream to upstream entrance is 7.5 km. The traverse is completed in motorised, long tail boats. Click the following link to view a highlights video of Kong Lor Cave:
Kong Lor Cave Tour
Tour Prices and Ticketing: Tour tickets must be purchased at the office at the main gate (approx. 500 meters from the cave entrance) and presented to the ticket kiosk next to the lagoon. As of February 2024, the tour price is 200K Laotian Kip per person with a minimum of two paying customers per boat. Life jackets are included in the tour price. Headlamps can be hired at the lagoon kiosk for 10k LAK. The operating times for the boat trip are 08.00 – 17.00, daily.
The Downstream Entrance Area: From the ticket office it’s a 500 meter walk to the lagoon area. Once you arrive there you’ll see a cluster of wooden buildings, including restroom facilities and an admin office. You’ll need to show your ticket to the staff in the admin hut after which you’ll be assigned a driver, and a boat. Note: The maximum number of people per boat is three. The boat driver will provide your life jacket, which must be worn while riding in the boat. Once this is completed, you’ll walk down to and around the far side of the lagoon to enter the cave.
Tour Duration: The round trip will take approximately 2.5 hours. This also includes stops at two formations plateau, and the encampment on the upstream side of the cave.
Tour Safety: The maximum number of passengers per boat, is three. Life jackets must be worn at all times while in the boat. If you don’t have your own flashlight it’s highly recommended you rent a headlamp. Without a light you won’t see very much. Note: The only areas of the cave which are illuminated are the formations plateaus.
The Boat Departure Area: This is approximately 200 meters inside the downstream entrance. There’s a cement pathway along the right-hand side of the cave which takes you to a small beach where the boats are parked. Once the boat driver has readied the boat, and you’ve donned your life jackets, you’ll be on your way.
The Run Through the Cave: The run to the upstream entrance will take approximately 1.5 hours and includes stops at two different formations viewing areas. The first area is on the right and only 600 meters from the departure point. This first viewing area is a new addition to the cave tour (opened just recently) and is safe to access. There’s a boat landing where sightseers can disembark and a series of metal stairs and walkways which take you up into an elevated area of the cave. The walkway is approximately 200 meters in length and there’s a viewing platform at the end, giving you an up close look at the massive stalactites and stalagmites. Note: Both formations viewing areas are illuminated for a safe and enjoyable sightseeing experience.
The second formation viewing area is only a short distance (300 meters) beyond the first, and on the left side of the cave. This is the original formations area which was developed when the cave first opened to tourism, some fifteen years previously. This area is also set up with a solid pathway to follow, and illumination to highlight the formations. This second is also on an elevated plateau and runs for approximately 300 meters before a stairway takes you down to the river to rejoin the boat.
The upstream entrance: From the formations plateau it’s another 6.5 km to the upstream entrance (exit point). As the boat approaches the exit point the glow of daylight penetrates well into the cave. Approximately 400 meters from the exit (upstream entrance), there’s a change in the river level. Passengers will need to alight so the drivers can haul their boats up and over the barrier created by the abrupt one meter drop in water levels. At this point sightseers can take some time to walk along the underground beach, on the left side of the river, and admire the sheer size of the cave.
The upstream side: After clearing the obstacle the boat trip continues on to a lost world, beyond the upstream entrance. A place where jungle clad, jagged peaks encroach on the river and groups of water buffaloes graze along its banks. Approximately 1 km beyond the upstream entrance, there’s a landing point where passengers can alight and spend some time at the nearby encampment. There is some small restaurants selling drinks and snack foods.
The return run: After relaxing for 20 – 30 minutes at the encampment, sightseers on the standard tour will re-join the boat for the 45 minute run back through the cave. Once again the world of daylight is left behind as one enters the darkened, primordial world of Kong Lor Cave; an experience which is a highlight of a tour through Laos and perhaps, even South East Asia.
The Rock Viewpoint – General Information
About: The Rock Viewpoint is an adventure activity base on Hwy # 8 (the top of the loop) owned and operated by GREEN DISCOVERY LAOS.
Update 2024: A lot has happened at the Rock Viewpoint since it first opened in December 2019. The COVID era may have slowed things down for a while but the development, since its humble beginnings four years ago, is impressive. The primary adventure activity is still the zip-line circuit. However, the original five line circuit has now been extended to fifteen and includes a climbing section, caving, a canopy walk, and abseiling. For those up for the challenge, there’s also a 120 meter abseil into a vertical cave (Tham Phong). Additionally, there’s a couple of excellent adventure cave tours available. The following short video features highlights of the Zip-line circuit:
The Rock Lodge: For those who want to stay a bit longer (overnight or an extended stay) the ROCK LODGE has some unique accommodation. The Capsules are twin bunk, air-conditioned accommodation which seem to be a good fit for the forested location. Capsules without showers and toilets are priced at US 40 a night (note: there’s a communal shower and toilet block for these capsules). Capsules with inbuilt showers and toilets are US 50 per night.
The Rock Viewpoint – Adventure Activities
Zip-line circuits: There is actually three zipline circuits on offer. For most loopers the basic five line circuit is still the popular choice, due to price and time considerations. The basic circuit takes approximately 2 – 3 hours to complete and is priced at US 30 per person. The intermediate circuit has some extra zip-lines and can be completed in four hours. The price for the intermediate circuit is US 60 per person. The ultimate zip-lining and adventure experience is the Rock Challenge. This is a full day (8 hours) adventure which includes:
- Fifteen zip-lines (90 – 480 meter spans).
- A spider net bridge crossing (62 meter span).
- A Via Feratta climb to a high point giving a 360 degree view.
- Forrest canopy walks (total = 2130 meters).
- A 30 meter abseil down a cliff
- A 50 meter cave penetration
- A suspended bridge crossing (80 meter span)
- A V-shaped rope bridge crossing (10 meters)
The price for the full day challenge is US 90 per person.
The nature trail: For those looking for something a bit more sedate than the zip-line circuits, a 650 meter nature trail has been installed. The trail is constructed of steel and timber and is configured in a loop which takes you down into the karst terrain, via a series of stairways and boardwalks. The best time for doing the nature trail is late in the afternoon (16:30 – 17:00) as this is the best time for a sighting of the Languors (Monkeys) which live in the area. The price for the nature trail is 50,000 Laotian Kip per person.
Khop Chai Deu: For those who just want to chill out and watch the sunset, with a cold Beer Lao, the restaurant/cafe has a fantastic viewing platform providing a magnificent panorama across the limestone forest. The restaurant also has an excellent menu and great coffees.
The Rock Viewpoint – Caving Tours
Caving activities: One of the best adventure activities available at the Rock is the NANGLONG CAVE TOUR. Green Discovery have their own adventure cave site, which has been fully developed for a safe tour.
Doing the tour: The tour starts with a thirty minute hike through farmland and forests before a short ascent to the cave entrance. Because the cave is contracted to Green Discovery, there are locked gates at each end to ensure no unsupervised adventurers can enter. From the entry gate, a stairway takes you down to a series of net bridges, which span a void. All sightseers are required to be clipped on to a span wire, with a double lanyard, when crossing the net bridges. Once off the net bridges, you unclip and enter the upper section of the cave.
Abseiling: This takes around 30 minutes to complete before arriving at the peak challenge of the tour: a 20 meter abseil down to the river. Note: There’s only 10 meters of free fall before touching a sloping rock face down to the riverbed. The Green Discovery guides will set everything up for you, and provide instruction, to ensure you have a safe abseil experience.
Swimming: Once you’re at the bottom, the fun part begins. The distance to the exit point is approximately one km and getting there involves a good deal of swimming through the water filled cave rooms. The final 100 meters is a climb through a dry section to the exit point. The tour will take approximately three hours to complete, and the price is US 90 per person. Click the link below to see a highlights video of the Nanglong Cave Tour:
Nam None Cave Tour
Nam Non Cave: This is a large adventure cave, located approximately 10 km before Kong Lor Village. Coming from Na Hin the turn off is on the left, at Nam None Village. The access track goes through the village and leads to a massive limestone cliff. At the base of cliff, follow the track to the right and ride to the very end.
Dry season only: Between the months of November and April, the river bed is dry and the cave is safe to enter. The cave entrance is like a massive inverted V, which can actually be seen from the main road. Nam Non Cave has bigger internal dimensions than Kong Lor Cave. It’s a long, vast passageway with the ceiling, in many sections, at least 50 meters above the cave floor.
Nam None Cave Tour: The best way of making a trip into this massive natural tunnel, is on an organised outing with GREEN DISCOVERY LAOS from their adventure base at the ROCK VIEWPOINT.
Adventure: Taking a trip into this cave is a challenging undertaking. There’s a combination of trekking, swimming, and climbing to go four to five km into the cave. The internal volume is bigger than Kong Lor Cave and rumors are it’s over 16 km long. The guides at Nam None Village have never been right through it, and nobody actually knows how long it is. The standard tour (the one I did) takes you 4.4 km into the cave and involves a good deal of wading and swimming. It’s a great adventure but, in the interests of safety, it needs to be done with experienced and knowledgeable local guides.
The Secret Village Tour
Along Hwy 13: Many loopers get told to avoid Hwy # 13 (the main route to Vientiane) due to the amount of heavy truck traffic and also because “there’s nothing to see.” The advice about truck traffic is quite correct but being told there’s nothing to see is plainly wrong.
Getting off the beaten track: There is, in fact, a fantastic full day adventure just a few km down the road from the junction of Hwy # 8 and Hwy # 13. The SECRET VILLAGE, and THAM HUEP CAVE, are hidden gems which most loopers miss but need not, because the locations are clearly indicated on Google maps. There’s a couple of remote villages on the far side of a 300 meter high karst peak, and the only way of getting there is going through a one km long river cave.
Organised tour: The best way of seeing this attraction is to do a tour with GREEN DISCOVERY LAOS, from the ROCK VIEWPOINT. They can provide transport and an experienced, English speaking guide. The local guides at the village, at the start point, don’t speak English.
Doing the tour: If you’re making the tour with Green Discovery, they’ll organise the local guide and boat driver, once you arrive at the village. The first activity is a short river crossing followed by a two km trek to the cave entrance. The official name for this cave is Tham Huep and its approximately one km in length. This cave is a river passage which, in the dry season, the water level is low enough to pass through. Having said that, there’s still some thigh deep wading which needs to be done in the first two thirds of the cave.
The Temple Village: After exiting Tham Huep Cave it’s a one km walk to the first village, simply known as the Temple Village. The only thing of note here is the large golden Buddha, which is on the temple grounds. The village is enshrouded in tree growth which, after four km of hiking, is a welcome relief. There’s a seating area in a shady spot which the guides will use for the lunch break.
The Secret Village: This is a further 1.4 km past the Temple Village and, to be honest, it’s not as picturesque. Where the Temple Village has lots of trees providing a shady respite, the Secret Village is fully exposed to the sun. According to some of the villagers there, many of the trees were cut down as part of the development of the area. The 1.4 km hike is quite taxing simply because for much of it, you’re fully exposed to the midday day heat. For anyone considering doing the tour, pack a hat and sunblock. The most interesting aspect of the Secret Village is the resident Water Buffaloes. They are quite friendly fellows.
Conclusion: The tour to the Secret Village, and the walk through Tham Huep Cave, is an excellent days outing and doing it with Green Discovery Laos is highly recommended. The total distance to walk is about 10 – 11 km but most of it is flat going and not difficult.
Stage Three – Kong Lor to Thakhek (Highways 8 & 13)
Kong Lor to Thakhek: After completing the trip through Kong Lor Cave, the majority of Looper’s normally ride back to Thakhek on the same day. The ride down Hwy’s 8 & 13, from Kong Lor, is 187 km and care should be taken due to the number of heavy trucks on the road. Click here for directions back to Thakhek
The Rock zipline circuit: If you haven’t done the zip-line circuit, then it’s worth checking out on your way through. Note: the zip-line circuit normally takes three hours to complete. So it’s recommended departing Kong Lor Village in the morning to allow enough time to get back to Thakhek, before darkness.
Khong Leng Lake: The turn off is 38 km before Thakhek. Coming from Na Hin, the turnoff is on your left. It is clearly sign-posted and has an 18 km sealed road all the way to the parking area. The water hole is spring fed and is great spot for a refreshing swim on your The Rock Zipline Circuit way to Thakhek.
The Great Wall: This is a minor sightseeing attraction, just 10 km north of Thakhek. Most people do this site as a day trip from Thakhek. Coming from Kong Lor, the turn off is on the right.
Kong Lor to Thankhek on the Back Road
The Back Road: Over recent years the back road has become an increasingly popular option for the more adventurous Looper. The idea of taking your motorbike through the cave, and riding the 52 km of dirt road back to the Nakai Plateau, is an exciting challenge. However, there’s a couple of things to consider carefully before taking your motorbike through Kong Lor Cave.
A hazardous ride: Even though the back road route is marginally shorter in distance, it’s actually far more hazardous due its rough state from the upstream encampment.
Dry season only: This is normally an extra stage on the loop. It should only be attempted in the dry season, as this remote road is a potholed and difficult ride.
The cost: Another prime consideration is the cost. For one person with a motorbike, the price is US 33 to go through Kong Lor Cave.
Use an off road bike: Additionally, the road is not really suitable for scooters. Especially the final 10 km ascent to the Nakai Plateau, which has some steep and rocky sections to negotiate. If you’ve got your heart set on doing the back road, I would highly recommend hiring an off road bike in Thakhek.
Avoid going solo: Travel in a group, or at least with two motorbikes. This area of Laos is very remote and has long stretches without visible habitation. If you break down, it could be a long walk to a bike repair shop.
Start early: You should leave the upstream encampment no later than 1 pm to avoid riding the back road in the dark. Click the link below for short video on taking a motorbike through Kong Lor Cave:
Back to Thakhek: The dirt road exits on hwy 1 E, near the Orchid Trail. You then have the option of riding back to Thakhek, or doing the extended Loop. Click here for directions
Doing the Extended Loop
About: From Nakai go south on Hwy 1E until you arrive at Gnommalat Junction. This is the intersecting point on to Hwy 12. From here, turn left and head out towards the Vietnamese border. Note: The only sightseeing attraction of significance at Gnommalat is the Golden Rabbit Viewpoint. The lookout is 2 km east of the junction (back towards Thakhek) but is well signposted and easy to locate. There’s a steel stairway of 780 steps up to the lookout which offers fantastic views across the landscape. The sunrise view is spectacular, but to see this you’ll need to spend one night at a guesthouse in Gnommalat.
Vietnam Border: From Gnommalat it’s a flat run of approximately 70 km to Nong Chan Village (aka Lang Khang). Approximately 2 km before Nong Chan is the SAYPHOULOUNG RESORT (approximately 16 km from the Vietnam Border). For directions click here
Note: This is the only decent accommodation choice in town for getting a good night’s sleep before hitting the road to Bualapha. There’s also some interesting war memorabilia in the parking area; cluster bomb casings set up on display stands. This area is near the Mu Gia Pass, a significant location during the Vietnam War. Find out more
For more links, pictures and maps on the Thakhek Loop in Laos then please download the full interactive PDF travel guide:
