About The 4000 Islands in Laos
About: The 4000 Islands (Si Phan Don) is an area of the Mekong River, close to the border of Cambodia. It is one of the widest points of the Mekong, some 8 km in width, and is dotted with hundreds of islands of varying size. It is the point on the Mekong where there’s a natural barrier to further boat movement upstream. Back in the 1860’s French exploration of the river was halted by this 12-meter height difference between the upstream and downstream sides.
Peak flow: This area of the Mekong has the widest waterfalls in Asia with massive volumes of water flowing wildly down the many falls. Every year, by mid-October, the river is at peak flow and all the waterfalls are a raging torrent. It provides a spectacular sightseeing experience for those fortunate to be in the area at the time.
Getting there: If you plan on traveling up from SIEM REAP, the only available option of transportation is a minivan with ASIAN VAN TRANSFERS (AVT). As of October 2022, the price for the one-way trip is 42 USD per person. Note: the price of the ticket includes the ferry crossing to DON DET ISLAND. Click the following link for the location of the AVT office in Siem Reap:
Google Map of the AVT Location
Departure: The minivan departs at 08.30 am, from their office in Siem Reap, and with the immigration clearances, on both sides of the border, is approximately an eight-hour trip to Don Det. Note: The price of a 30-day, Lao Visa on arrival is currently 30 USD.
Coming from Pakse: There are regular minivan transfers from Pakse to the 4000 Islands. As of October 2022, the price is 150,000 Kip per person for the one-way trip. Note: The ticket price includes the ferry crossing to Don Det. Travel time to is approximately three hours. Tickets can be purchased from any of the tour/travel desks in Pakse.
Coming from Thailand: Pakse, the nearest town to the 4000 Islands, has an international airport. There are daily flights from Bangkok to Pakse with LAO AIRLINES. The cheaper option is to take a train from Bangkok to Ubon Ratchathani, and then take the Pakse bus from Ubon Ratchathani Bus Station. The trip takes approximately three hours, including immigration clearances on both sides of the border. Click the following link to check your best option for getting from Bangkok to Pakse:
Click this link for getting from Bangkok to Pakse
4000 Islands Accommodation
Accommodation: The 3 islands where travelers head to are Don Det, Don Khone, and Don Khong. However, it’s generally considered that Don Det is livelier (more Guesthouses, Restaurants, and bars) and less expensive than Don Khone or Don Khong.
A popular choice: MAMA LEURTHS SUNSET GUESTHOUSE,on Don Det, is a great value accommodation choice along the edge of the Mekong River. The rooms are spacious and the rate includes hot water showers, and free WIFI (breakfast isn’t included) Click the link below for booking inquiries at Mama Leurths Guesthouse: Google Map of the AVT Location
Getting Around: The main modes of transport on Don Det and Don Khone are the bicycle and scooter. Most visitors to either island normally get around on bicycles. Some will occasionally hire a scooter if they’re on a tight schedule, but generally distances aren’t far and most of the roads are one lane tracks. As of October 2022 the rental rate for a bicycle = 25,000 LAK per day. For a scooter, it’s 100,000 Kip per day. If you’re staying on Don Det, bicycles and scooters can be hired from shops around the intersection of the main street. Note: There are a couple of four wheeled vehicles on running about on Don Khone, where the trails have now been paved. The trails on Don Det are still dirt.
4000 Islands Restaurants & Cafes
Where to eat: There are plenty of restaurant and dining options on both Don Det and Don Khone. Most serve a mix of western and Lao Food, and there are also a couple of Indian Restaurants dotted about the landscape. Many restaurants are positioned right on the river so as well as an enjoyable meal, you’ll also get a great view of the Mekong.
Similarly Priced: Most of the restaurants are similarly priced so choosing where to eat generally comes down to the quality of the food, and service.
Indian Food: The DATTA BANANALEAF is an excellent Indian restaurant, along the eastern edge of Don Det. The prices are very reasonable and the portions are filling.
Sundowners: A great spot for a sundowner (or three) is the SABAI SABAI BAR, right next to the Mama Leurth Guesthouse. The owner/manager (Brian) is a long term expat resident on Don Det, and his street side bar has a great relaxed ambience with views over the nearby rice fields. He also has a lounging platform available for anyone who wants to watch the sunset, whilst enjoying a cold beer Lao. Click the following link for the location of the Sabai Sabai Bar:
Namfon Restaurant: This is good local restaurant, nearby Mama Leurth’s for breakfast and western food.
4000 Islands, Laos, Sightseeing Information
Sightseeing on Don Det and Don Khone: The major attractions, and the primary reason for travel to 4000 Islands, is the waterfalls which span the gaps between the islands and the Lao, and Cambodian land masses. The main sites are:
- Khone Phapheng (the biggest)
- Liphi/Somphamit (2nd biggest)
- Khone Pa Soy (3rd biggest)
Note: The two biggest waterfalls, Khone Phapheng and Liphi/Somphamit have entry fees for visitors. There is no entry fee for Khone Pa Soy Falls.
- Khone Phapheng entry fee = 35,000 LAK per person
- Liphi/Somphamit entry fee = 35,000 LAK per person
Getting there: If you are staying on either Don Det or Don Khone it’s easy enough to visit Liphi/Somphamit and Khone Pa Soy Falls independently. Just hire a bicycle and get a map from one of the many tour desks in the area. Both the above-mentioned falls are on Don Khone so if you’re staying on Don Det you’ll need to cycle down to the southern end of the island and cross the old FRENCH RAILWAY BRIDGE onto Don Khone.
Note: If you’re coming from Don Det on a bicycle be prepared to put in a good few km to see both sets of falls on Don Khone. Having said that, the trails around both islands go through beautiful natural settings and if you’re there at the right time of year (November) the yellow rice fields are quite a colorful sight as you’re riding about.
Waterfall Sightseeing – Khone Pa Soy Falls
Khone Pa Soy Falls: The lesser visited, and harder to access, Khone Pha Soy Falls is on the eastern side of Don Khone Island. However, there’s no indicating sign for this location so using a bit of ready reckoning (and Google Maps) is the best method for getting there. The cement pathway, which takes you down the eastern side of the island, will take you somewhere near the location. Look for “waterfall on the Mekong – Temporary Closed” to put you in the target area. Access from the cement path is by way of a dirt track (no signage) on the left. The track takes you to a small parking area, next to a gate, for a rustic resort and restaurant. There is no fee for this site. Follow the path past the restaurant and a short way further you’ll come to what is probably one of the most exciting activities you’ll do while you’re at Si Phan Don: crossing a SUSPENSION BRIDGE which has most of its boards missing. For directions from Don Det, click here.
The suspension bridge: Five years ago, this bridge was fully boarded, and motorbikes could cross without a problem. Time, weather, and swollen rivers tend to change things. A blue warning sign has been affixed to the top of the entrance on to the bridge. It basically says, “cross at your own risk.” Enterprising locals have laid planks across what remains of the original slats, to provide a precarious pathway. If you don’t have a head for heights, hold on with two hands and tread warily.
Trail fork: Once safely across, continue the trail towards the river. At a fork, a left turn takes you to the upstream side of Khone Pha Soy. There’s not much to see here apart from a raging torrent surging around jungle covered islets. A right turn leads to an open beach area, at the downstream side of the falls. Note: The trail to this location also includes crossing the top of a small concrete dam. The pathway is no more than 30 cm in width.
Local fisherman: have built a small camp here. Hammocks sway in the breeze under shade provided by canvas, strung flat between tree branches. Out in the river, villagers work in waist deep water setting up their fish traps. The flow, in this downstream section, is more subdued. As the fishermen work deliberately the roar of the whitewater, just fifty meters upstream, is ever present. Unfortunately the beach, although a picturesque location, isn’t a great spot for getting a full view of the falls. It’s a forty-five-degree angle, at best.
Waterfall Sightseeing – Somphamit Falls
Liphi/Somphamit Falls: As mentioned, these falls are on the western side of Don Khone and are quite easy to find. Once you cross the historic bridge, turn right and follow the wellmarked trails.
Entry fee: Liphi/Somphamit falls has an entry fee of 35,000 LAK and accordingly the site is well set up for sightseers. At the head of the falls there’s an elevated observation building which also includes a restaurant. Additionally, a boarded observation deck has put in place to allow sightseers to get a closer view of the head of the falls.
Somphamit Falls: From the observation point, follow the cliff line along the river to get a better view of the falls further downstream. The falls are quite extensive and continue south from the observation point for at least 1 km. The only negative aspect of sightseeing at this site is there seems to be zip-line wires all over the place.
Waterfall Sightseeing – Khone Phapheng Falls
Khone Phapheng Falls: This fantastic natural wonder and definitely should be on every travelers bucket list. When in full flow it has the greatest volume of water, of any falls in the world, cascading down its short drop. The best time of the year to see the falls in full flow, without rain, is late October. However, if you are staying on the Islands (Don Det or Don Khone) you’ll need to cross back to Nakasong and hire a tuk-tuk (3 wheeled taxi) to take you down to the falls. Reason: the observation area for Khone Phapheng is on the mainland and not the islands. Download the full PDF for more directions and map links.
Waterfall Sightseeing – The Kayak Tour
The 4000 Islands Kayak Tour: If you decide to do the Kayak tour you’ll get to see KHONE PA SOY FALLS, and also KHONE PHAPHENG. The tour is a full days outing (approx. 8 hours) which involves a significant amount of paddling – about 8 km – and as such requires a reasonable level of physical fitness. The last paddle section of the tour is the most difficult; the crossing from Nakasong jetty to Don Det, a distance of 1.5 km, and completely across the current.
Breaks: There are breaks between each paddle section which require walking and sightseeing (Khone Pa Soy Falls) on Don Khone, and a lunch stop and swimming, on a deserted CAMBODIAN ISLAND. The paddle leg from the Cambodian Island to the boat ramp (approximately 3 km down river) where the group and kayaks are picked up for transportation to Khone Phapheng Falls, is the longest.
Natural Wonder: The fatigue of such a long paddle is soon forgotten though when one gets to Khone Phapheng Falls. This is a truly remarkable natural wonder when the river is in full flow. Having done the tour I would say it is definitely one of the best things to do while at the 4000 Islands, even though one might feel it’s a bit expensive at the time. The 4000 Islands is a brilliant sightseeing experience and definitely worth getting off the beaten track for.
