The Bolaven Loop, Laos

Exploring The Bolaven Loop, Laos

The Bolaven Plateau is an elevated volcanic area, located predominantly in Champasak Province, Southern Laos. The eastern side protrudes into Sekong and Attapeu Provinces, with the northeast corner in Salavan Province.

The plateau’s peak elevation ranges from 1,000 to 1,350 meters (3,280 to 4,430 ft) above sea level.

The name Bolaven makes reference to the Laven ethnic group, which has historically dominated the region. The plateau is renowned for its majestic landscapes, where jungle-covered peaks fall away to deep ravines, with some of the most visually impressive waterfalls in Laos.

Click here to find out more

Coffee Cultivation:
Due to its elevation (1,350 meters at its highest point), the plateau has an ideal climate for coffee cultivation: cool nights and warm, dry days. As one rides across the plateau, hectares of coffee plantations can be seen in abundance.

Adventure Destination:
Over recent years, the Bolaven Plateau has become increasingly popular as an adventure destination for the independent traveler. Those wanting to get off the beaten track of mainstream tourism can enjoy the beauty of a largely undeveloped landscape, with waterfalls being the primary sightseeing experience.

Bolaven Loop Trip:
As mentioned, for travelers and adventurers wanting to get off the beaten track of mainstream tourism, the plateau has a fantastic motorbike tour called the Bolaven Loop. The tour starts and ends in the provincial capital of Pakse, and typically lasts 3–4 days (depending on whether you do the Big or Small Loop). Motorbikes (scooters) can be rented in Pakse for around 100,000 Kip per day.

Best Season:
The ideal time to do the loop tour is in the dry season (November to May). However, as most roads are sealed, it’s also possible to make the tour in the rainy season. Note: This is actually the best time to see the waterfalls (in full flow).

Getting To Pakse On The Bolaven Loop

Here’s a few handy travel tips if you’re travelling to Pakse.

Already in Laos:
A bus from Vientiane to Pakse takes 12 hours of travel time. Click this link for booking inquiries.

Laos Airlines:
The national airline also runs direct flights from Vientiane to Pakse. If you’re not on a super tight budget, these flights are relatively inexpensive—approximately USD 75 one way. Travel time is one hour.

Click here to book Laos Airlines

Coming from Cambodia:
There is a minivan service from Siem Reap to Pakse. Travel time is approximately 8 hours.

Click this link for booking inquiries.

From Thailand:
There is a daily bus service from Ubon Ratchathani Station to Pakse.

Due to the fact that the trip crosses the border and continues on to the Pakse bus terminal, it takes approximately 3.5–4 hours (this includes the time taken for exit and entry clearances).

The buses only depart in the mornings at 07:00, 08:10, and 09:30 AM.

Click this link for travel options from Bangkok to Ubon Ratchathani.

Coming from Vietnam:
Pakse is in the south of Laos, so if you’re coming from Hanoi, it’s quite a long journey.

Click this link for flight options from Hanoi

Accommodation on the Baloven Loop

Pakse is in Champasak Province, Southern Laos, and is the start and finish point for the Bolaven Loop. The town sits on the eastern bank of the Mekong River and is the gateway to the most southern areas of Laos and Cambodia beyond.

In years past, Pakse was a bit of a sleepy backwater that most travelers bypassed on their way north to Savanakhet or, conversely, south to the magical 4000 Islands. More recently, Pakse has seen a surge in popularity due to many travelers discovering the adventure of one of the best short motorbike tours in Southeast Asia: The Bolaven Loop Tour.

Accommodation:
There’s plenty of accommodation choices to suit your budget range. An excellent low-cost option is the Nang Noi Guesthouse, situated near the center of town.

Click this link for booking inquiries at Nang Noi Guesthouse.

Mid-Range Option:
The Alisa Hotel is a centrally located mid-range hotel, just off the main street. It’s a newer hotel with large, comfortable, air-conditioned rooms, hot-water showers, and free Wi-Fi. If you’re not on a tight budget, this is an excellent choice, as it’s quiet at night (being set back from the main street) and also has secure parking for motorbikes.

Click this link for booking inquiries at the Alisa Hotel.

High-End Option:
For those looking for something a bit more comfortable, with a nice pool, the Athena Hotel is a great high-end option.

Click this link for booking inquiries at the Athena Hotel.

Cafe’s & Restaurants on the Baloven Loop

One of the great things about Southern Laos is that there are plenty of great choices when it comes to getting a good coffee. The nearby Bolaven Plateau is a major coffee cultivation area in the country, and as such, there’s a wide selection of brands available in Pakse.

One of the best is Sinouk Coffee, which has its own café and restaurant near the center of town: the Sinouk Café. Sinouk is also a hotel (Sinouk Residence) with mid-range priced rooms on offer (550,000 Kip).

Click this link for the location.

French Bakery and Café:
Le Boulange is an excellent spot for a morning croissant and a great coffee. The owner/manager is a French national who bakes superb breads and pastries. The ambiance at Le Boulange is fantastic—it’s a great place to spend an hour or so relaxing with a coffee and watching the world go by. Their breakfasts are also excellent, with generous servings.

Note: One of the staff working at Le Boulange is Xavier, the guy who has the off-road motorbikes for hire (Yamaha XTR 125). If you want to rent an off-road bike in Pakse, Xavier is the only person that has them.

Click this link for the location of Le Boulange.

How To Rent A Motorbike In Pakse

There are several tour agents in Pakse who have information, itineraries, and motorbikes for rent for those wanting to do the loop. The majority of rental agencies offer scooters in the 100–130cc capacity range, with a selection of automatic and semi-automatic options available.

Prices vary from 100,000 to 120,000 LAK per day, and cheaper rates can often be bargained for longer hires (e.g., one week). An excellent choice for motorbike rentals in Pakse is Lao Go Car & Motorbikes. They offer competitive rates and have a helpful and informative management team.

Click this link to contact Lao Go.

A Weekly Rate:
Lao Go will often give you a better rate if you decide to take a motor scooter for a week’s rental. They will also provide you with a helmet, a lock, and a good map of the loop trip, which highlights all the best sightseeing locations and recommendations for accommodation.

Additionally, they will allow you to leave your larger bags or packs at the office while you’re off doing the loop.

Off-Road Bike:
A good option for doing the loop trip in the rainy season is to hire an off-road bike. Although this isn’t absolutely necessary (you can still complete the trip on a conventional scooter), an off-road bike provides much better stability in wet and muddy conditions.

If you would like to rent an off-road bike for the loop trip, contact Xavier in Pakse at +856 2092780140 (also available on WhatsApp).

Motorbike Security:
Always lock your bike when in remote locations, and always park in designated parking areas.

Booking Day Tours in Pakse

For those who don’t feel like committing to the multi-day demands of the loop trip, there are other excellent sightseeing attractions in and around Pakse that can be completed as day trips. These include the Khmer historical site of Wat Phou (approximately 49 km southeast of Pakse) and the waterfalls in the Tad Fane area.

For directions to Wat Phou, click this link.

Wat Phou:
This is one of the oldest Khmer historical sites in the region, dating back to a time before Angkor Wat was built. The architecture is similar to Khmer sites in Cambodia, albeit on a much smaller scale.

However, one unusual feature that indicates a difference from the more well-known sites in Siem Reap is the stone carving of a crocodile, which, according to Wikipedia, may have been used for human sacrifice.

Tad Fane:
At around 125 meters, the twin falls of Tad Fane are among the highest waterfalls in Laos. This site is normally visited on the last day of the Loop trip, but being just 40 km from Pakse, it can also be easily completed as a day trip. Hire a motorbike and make the one-hour ride up Highway 16.

Click this link below for directions from Pakse.

Doing The Bolaven Loop Tour

As mentioned, there are two options for doing the Bolaven Loop: the Small Loop and the Big Loop. Which one you choose will simply come down to how much time you have. Generally, the time needed to do either of the loops is as follows:

• Small Loop = 3 days / 2 nights
• Big Loop = 4 days / 3 nights

Regardless of which loop you choose, the first day of travel is the same for both. An overnight stop is made in Tad Lo Village before continuing on with either the Big or Small Loop.

Click this link for directions to Tad Lo Village.

Bolaven in the Rainy Season:
The plateau tends to be more popular with sightseers in the dry season, due to the clear skies and cooler weather. However, the more challenging rainy season is definitely the best time to see the waterfalls, as they are in peak flow.

The road across the center of the plateau will take you through some of the most stunning landscapes in Laos and also enable you to stop at the best waterfall locations. The rainy season (June to August) is also durian season on the Bolaven Plateau. As you ride up from Pakse, the aromatic smell of the “King of Fruits” permeates the air from the roadside stalls.

Watch our highlights video below:

Travelling from Pakse to Tad Lo

The ride from Pakse takes you around the northern side of the Bolaven Plateau, where impressive landscapes and coffee plantations abound. The distance is approximately 86 km, and travel time can take around 3–4 hours if stops are made at the various sightseeing attractions en route.

Waterfalls:
There are a couple of smaller waterfalls along the way that are worth checking out. Pha Suam Falls and the nearby Maak Ngaew Falls are small in comparison to other waterfalls on the loop trip, but they are set in very picturesque surroundings and are well worth an hour or so of your time on the way up to Tad Lo.

Click here for directions

However, if you’re on a tight schedule, I’d suggest foregoing the above-mentioned waterfalls and heading straight to the Wat Pa Forested Temple site. This is located approximately 10 km west of Tad Lo and is well worth 30 minutes to an hour of your time. The primary attraction of this site is the very large, old-growth trees—some are reputed to be 1,000 years old.

The Green Zone:
Coming from Pakse, the turn-off to Wat Pa is on the right, at a large sign marked The Green Zone. Follow the dirt road into the temple grounds and park near the large golden Buddha. Spend some time admiring the 1,000-year-old forest giants.

Click this link for directions

Exploring Tad Lo Village

This picturesque village is located on the northern side of the Bolaven Plateau and is one of the premier stops on the loop trip. The village sits on the eastern side of the Tad Lo River, with Tad Lo Waterfall being the primary sightseeing attraction.

Accommodation:
The village accommodation area is 1 km off Highway 20. Coming from Pakse, the turn-off is on the right, immediately past the bridge.

Note: Prior to COVID, there was a good selection of guesthouses, homestays, and small restaurants open for the steady stream of loopers coming through. As of July 2022, most of the guesthouses are closed. The Tad Lo Lodge, situated right next to the river, is currently one of the few (perhaps the only one) still open.

Click here to book the Tad Lo Lodge

Budget Accommodation:
A popular choice is the Palamei Guesthouse, possibly because room rates are very reasonable and it offers Western food to a good standard. Prices for a fan room range between 90,000–120,000 Laotian Kip (USD 6–8) per night.

Click here to book the Palamei Guesthouse

Sightseeing At The Lad Lo Waterfalls

With the advent of COVID, many of the activities and attractions in and around Tad Lo Village have been stopped or put on hold until tourism picks up again. This will likely occur in the coming dry season (starting November 2022).

One of the most popular attractions was the daily elephant bathing on the grounds of Tad Lo Lodge. The elephants are no longer on-site, and according to lodge staff, the bathing will not resume until tourist numbers increase significantly.

Walkways:
Prior to COVID, there were boarded walkways and a solid bridge crossing the river just south of Tad Lo Lodge. This is no longer the case, as flooding over the past couple of years has destroyed both. There is still a walkway and viewing platform on the western side of the river (giving a nice view of Tad Hang Falls), but to get there, you need to go back out to Highway 20 and come up the small road on that side.

Click here for directions

Walking North from Tad Lo Lodge:
Alternatively, if you are staying at Tad Lo Lodge, you can follow the jungle trail downstream for 100 meters and get a nice view of Tad Hang Falls. On the way, you’ll probably see local villagers going about their daily bathing and laundry activities in the shallow side pools of the river.

Tad Lo Waterfall:
As mentioned, this is a featured attraction on the loop trip. Prior to COVID, there was a solid bridge across the river (south of Tad Hang Falls) which allowed sightseers to cross over to the western side and follow a boarded walkway up to the base of Tad Lo Falls. As of July 2022, that bridge no longer exists—destroyed by flooding.

Jungle Trail:
From the lodge, it’s approximately 600 meters upstream to the waterfall. The jungle trail runs along the eastern side of the river and is clearly marked. On the way, you’ll pass the entry point to the suspension bridge, which is about 100 meters downstream from the face of the falls. If you continue on, you’ll eventually reach a wooden stairway that leads down to the base of the falls.

Note: If you are visiting in the rainy season, use caution when descending, as the stairway is steep and slippery. In the dry season, when the water flow is much lower, this is a great spot for swimming.

The Suspension Bridge:
This is a new addition to the sightseeing attractions around Tad Lo. With the destruction of the bridges downstream, the suspension bridge was constructed to withstand future flood damage. It offers an excellent elevated view of the waterfall and provides quite a spectacular sight during the high flow of the rainy season.

Bridge Sway:
If you don’t have a head for heights or you’re unsteady on your feet, venturing out onto the suspension bridge may not be advisable, as it tends to sway while crossing. For safety, there is a zip-line (located above head height) which sightseers can clip onto while wearing a harness.

Click the link to the right to see video highlights of the Tad Lo Waterfall:

Continueing On The Small Bolaven Loop

Continuing on with the loop trip, you’ll head around the northern side of the Bolaven Plateau, eventually arriving at the provincial town of Thatheng. At the T-junction, go straight for the Small Loop and Paksong, or turn left for the Big Loop and Sekong.

Click this link for directiosn to Paksong

Paksong:
The distance from Tad Lo to Paksong is approximately 65 km, and travel time is 1–2 hours. Keep in mind that Paksong is the highest point on the Bolaven Plateau (1,350 meters above sea level), and as such, it is also the coldest. You’ll notice a significant temperature drop as you ride up from Thatheng.

Coffee Culture:
On the ride from Thatheng to Paksong, you’ll see a large number of coffee plantations lining both sides of the road. Many of these also offer accommodation, with the pick of the bunch being the Sinouk Resort. At USD 50 per night, it may be a bit too expensive for most travellers on the loop trip, but for those without budgetary constraints, Sinouk offers excellent three-star chalets and a chance for an in-depth look at the coffee cultivation industry.

Click here to arrange accommodation at the Sinouk Resort

Doing The Big Loop – The Bolaven Loop Continued

As mentioned previously, the initial direction for doing the Big Loop, when departing from Tad Lo, is the same as for the Small Loop. However, when you get to Thatheng, make a left turn at the T-junction and head to Sekong on Highway 16.

Thatheng:
There are a couple of roadside restaurants near the T-junction where you can get local food such as fried rice or noodle soup before continuing your trip.

Highway 16:
The distance from Thatheng to Sekong is approximately 47 km, and there’s a noticeable drop in elevation. This is also a very scenic ride, and as you descend in altitude, the air temperature becomes noticeably warmer again.
Due to the remoteness and wild terrain, there’s an additional hazard on the roads: wandering livestock. Ride with caution, as herds of cows and goats are often found standing or sitting in the middle of the road.

Sekong:
The provincial capital is a picturesque town located next to the Xe Namnoy River. The majority of loopers tend to pass through here in their haste to get to Tayicseua, or, if heading in the opposite direction, back to Tad Lo.

Overnight in Sekong:
If you’re traveling a bit late in the day and decide to spend the night in Sekong, be aware that the selection of guesthouses isn’t great.
Note: Between Sekong and Tayicseua, there are not many guesthouses of any worthwhile standard currently open. As of July 2022, the PS Garden camping ground is closed (though it will likely reopen when the dry season of 2022 begins).

The Sekong Hotel:
One of the few places open is the Sekong Hotel. The nightly rate is 120,000 Kip for an air-conditioned room with hot water. The hotel is quite run-down and, although the rooms are fairly spacious, the beds are probably the hardest I’ve ever slept on.

Being in Sekong feels like stepping back in time—think Thailand in the 1980s and you’ll get the picture. The only thing of note in the town is a five-kilometre stretch of dual roadway with streetlights powered by solar panels—a rather unusual sight for a largely undeveloped area of the country.

Click here for the location of the Sekong Hotel

Exploring The Sekong Province

The mountain road eventually drops to the plains on the eastern side of the Bolaven Plateau. The T-junction of the mountain road and Route 11 is actually in Attapeu Province, and there’s a small village located at the junction. To get to Sekong, make a left turn and head north. This road is a truly scenic ride, with the imposing bluff of the Bolaven Plateau on your left and a green landscape of jungle and rice paddies all around.

Tad Faed Waterfall:
Approximately seven kilometers from the T-junction is the turnoff to Tad Faed Waterfall. This is a lesser-visited site on the loop, possibly because it’s not very spectacular during the dry season. However, in the rainy season, it becomes visually impressive and well worth an hour or two of your time.

The turn-off is on the right, just past the bridge across the Xe Namnoy River. From there, it’s a 4 km sealed road to the parking area. On the way, you’ll pass the turnoff to another smaller waterfall: Tad Hua Khon (located next to PS Garden).

Widest Waterfall:
The viewing area at Tad Faed is quite well set up for sightseeing. There’s a restaurant, restrooms, and a walkway that leads over to an island in the middle of the river. Tad Faed doesn’t have a big drop, but when it’s in full flow, it’s possibly the widest waterfall on the Bolaven Plateau.

To get closer to the falls, you can cross the bridge to the island, then follow the trail to the center of the falls. From there, you can climb up the rock face to the top of the falls for an exceptional view.

Click here for directions

Venturing Through The Mountain Road

From Tad Faed Waterfall, it’s only a short distance (7 km) to the Ban Beng Phou Kham T-junction. This is the point where you turn right and head back up the Bolaven Plateau. For the first few kilometers, the mountain road is relatively flat, but then it rises dramatically and weaves through a spectacularly rugged landscape en route to Tayicsua.
Note: For some strange reason, this part of the highway (between Sekong and Attapeu) becomes Highway 11.

Tad Katamtok:
Approximately 16 km from the Ban Beng Phou Kham T-junction is arguably the biggest and most impressive waterfall on the Bolaven Plateau. It is situated approximately 47 km east of Paksong, along the mountain road in a remote and uninhabited area, a few kilometers past a hydro-electric development.

The area features magnificent jungle-covered peaks and deep ravines and is especially spectacular if you’re on a motorbike. The turn-off is approximately 2 km east of the old bridge and is marked by a large Banyan tree.

Prior to COVID, a track continued along the edge of the cliff face, offering better views of the falls. However, that path is now overgrown with jungle.

Waterfall Viewing:
There is a small viewing area just a few meters from the large Banyan tree (where you park your bike). This is currently the only spot where you can get an unobstructed view of the waterfall. Unfortunately, due to dense forest growth in the distance, you can’t see the full waterfall from top to bottom.

Click here for directions from Tad Faed to Tad Katamtok

Getting To The Tayicsua Homestay

Tad Katamtok is an important marker in finding your way to the Tayicsua Homestay. Approximately five kilometers further on from Tad Katamtok Waterfall, there is a dirt road on the left which you must take.

There’s a signpost indicating the correct turn-off, which reads: “Tayicsua Guesthouse 5.3 km.” Take this road and continue for approximately another 4 km until you reach the turn-off down to the homestay.

Click this link for directions from Tad Katamtok to Tayicsua

Tayicsua:
In years past, Tayicsua was the highlight of the Big Loop Tour. Unfortunately, COVID and two years of neglect have seen this once-amazing waterfall site fall into a state of disrepair. As of October 2022, there is no accommodation open, and the restaurant is also closed. The fabled waterfall trail is now largely overgrown with jungle, and many of the wooden handrails have rotted and collapsed. Sadly, it seems the owners have simply given up.

Day Visit:
As of October 2022, the only waterfall sightseeing option available is a day visit. The upper section of the waterfall trail is still accessible, and Jairou Halang, the best waterfall, can still be reached. The cost of a day visit is 20,000 Kip per person.

Heading To Paksong

The ride through Paksong marks the final leg of the Big Loop and is a fairly straight run toward the Tad Fane waterfall area. There are two options for getting to Paksong: The first, and easiest, is to retrace your steps back to the sealed mountain road. The second, more difficult option is to take an alternate route, which includes 12 km of dirt road before reconnecting with the mountain road.

Tad Koo Waterfall Resort:
The great thing about taking the alternate route is that it passes by a location with two waterfalls and a large natural swimming pool, known as Tad Koo Waterfall Resort. The site is just a short distance off the dirt road and is an excellent place to stop for a swim and a bite to eat.

The entry fee is 15,000 Kip, and there’s also a restaurant on-site. This site may well be one of the hidden gems of the Bolaven Loop Tour—and to be honest, stopping here instead of Tayicsua is likely a much better option.

Click this link for directions from Tayicsua to Tad Koo

Exploring Paksong During The Big Loop

This is a small township at the top of the Bolaven Plateau. Its elevation is 1,350 meters, and as such, it is markedly cooler than temperatures in Pakse. The town is built on a flat, open plain exposed to the cool winds blowing across the plateau. During the rainy season, it’s often wet and foggy.
Note: In the months of December and January, overnight temperatures often drop into single figures (°C).

Paksong Stopover:
There are a few basic guesthouses in town, but the reality is that there’s not much to do in Paksong itself. For this reason, most loopers pass through quickly to get to the Tad Fane Waterfall area.

Coffee & Food:
There are a few local restaurants and small cafés along the edge of the highway. However, for a decent spot to enjoy a coffee and escape the chill, head to the Amazon Café at the PTT Gasoline Station.

Click this link for the location of the Amazon Café

Highlands Coffee:
This is a great place to stop for a coffee as you’re heading up to Paksong. It’s a large plantation with an attached café, located just a few kilometers before Paksong on the mountain road. They serve excellent coffee and also sell small packs of ground coffee and beans.

Click this link for the location of Highlands Coffee

Tad Gneuang – The Three Sisters Area

Coming from Paksong, this is the first of the three waterfalls you’ll come to. The turn-off is on the right, approximately 10 km west of Paksong.

During the dry season, the base of the falls is accessible. In the wet season, however, the draft and mist blowing off the falls is so intense that going beyond the lookout (halfway down) will almost certainly leave you soaked through.

Note: The turn-off is 1 km past the KM 40 marker post. There is a large billboard/advertising sign indicating the turn-off to the parking area (on the left).

Click here for the location

Access:
From the turn-off, follow the 800-meter dirt track down to the parking area and checkpoint. Pay your parking and entry fees, then walk a further 200–300 meters to reach the head of the falls.

Fees:

• Parking fee: 5,000 Kip
• Entrance fee: 10,000 Kip

Amenities:
The area is well set up with toilets, showers, and a large open-style restaurant that overlooks a picturesque stream-coursed landscape at the top of the falls.

Bottom of the Falls:
Beyond the restaurant, a wide stairway leads to the lower-level viewing area. At the far right corner of this level, there is a steep stairway that continues all the way down to the swimming hole at the foot of the falls.

Take care during the descent and always use the handrails provided. Tad Gneuang is a great spot for a swim, but be aware that the current, especially during peak flow times, can be quite strong. Additionally, the terrain surrounding the pool – being predominantly volcanic lava – is quite slippery.

Tad Fane, The Three Sisters Area

The turn-off to Tad Fane is at the KM 38 marker on Highway 16, approximately 2 km beyond Tad Gneuang. The track to Tad Champee is directly opposite. If you’re keen for a swim, then either Tad Champee or Tad Gneuang are your best choices, as it’s not possible to hike down to the foot of Tad Fane Falls.

Of the three sites, Tad Fane is the most developed for tourism.

For directions from Paksong, click here

Access:
A dirt road (approximately 800 meters) leads directly to the secure parking area.

Fees:

• Parking: 5,000 Kip
• Entry: 10,000 Kip

Zip-line:
Tad Fane also features a thrilling zip-line circuit for adventure seekers. The circuit includes a 450-meter zip-line across the valley, over the top of the falls, and back to the starting area.

The current cost is USD 30 per person, and safety gear and basic training are provided before the run. The zip-line is operated by Green Discovery Laos.

Click the following link for a highlights video of the Tad Fane zip-line adventure:

Stay a Night:
Enjoy an overnight stay at the Tad Fane Resort, click here to book.

Tad Champee, The Three Sisters Area

The Bolaven Plateau is a drawcard for its impressive waterfalls. Most are in locations which are reasonably easy to access and have facilities (restrooms and restaurants) in place for sightseers. Tad Champee is one of the more remote waterfalls on the plateau. On first viewing it appears hardly remarkable, but a closer look reveals a unique feature: a large cavern behind the curtain of water.

Getting there:
Getting to the site entails riding down three kilometers of rough dirt track (in the rainy season it’s red mud). Prior to COVID the site catered, at a basic level, for the small number of sightseers who made the ride down there. Above the falls there was a rustic-style restaurant selling cold drinks and simple rice and noodle dishes. Three years on, the restaurant is deserted.

The track down to the falls is now encroached by tree growth but still able to be negotiated. The walk along the sloping embankment provides glimpses of the waterfall through the thick tree growth.

A wooden walkway which once crossed the stream to a relaxation and swimming area directly in front of the falls is long gone. Crossing the stream now entails wading through waist-deep water.

The effort is worth it though, as it’s easier to access the cavern behind the falls from the far side of the stream.

Click here for directions from Paksong to Tad Champee

Exploring The Attapeu Province

Attapeu Province (and Attapeu Township) is a lesser-visited area of Laos and lies along the southern edge of the Bolaven Plateau. It’s in a remote area in southern Laos and is a detour from the conventional Big Loop.

Attapeu is a picturesque provincial town situated on a peninsula formed by a pronounced V-bend in the Xe Khong River. The sheer wall of the southern edge of the Bolaven escarpment provides an impressive backdrop to the town.

Getting to Attapeu:
You’ll need to ride around the eastern side of the Bolaven Plateau and south on Hwy 11 via Sekong. This is the standard route for the Big Loop, but instead of turning right at the Ban Beng Phou Kham T-junction, you continue straight on Hwy 11 to Attapeu Township.

Note: This is a detour from the Big Loop. The road is sealed all the way, and a morning ride will provide some beautifully scenic views of the Bolaven Escarpment.

For directions from Tad Lo to Attapeu, click this link

Xekhong River:
Attapeu Township sits on a peninsula formed by a hairpin bend in the Xekhong River. It’s situated near the Vietnam border and, as such, there’s a strong Vietnamese presence in the town.

Highway 11, which runs straight through the middle of the business area, is a main artery for transport trucks coming from (and going back to) Vietnam. The center of town has an abundance of Vietnamese-owned businesses—hotels, cafés, and restaurants—with Viet language signage being prominent.

Accommodation:
There is not much to do in Attapeu, but it’s a recommended overnight stop before riding out to the visually impressive Sae-pha and Saeponglai Falls.

A centrally located accommodation option for one night is the Than Nga Hotel. This is located at an intersection on the main street, in an area with several Vietnamese restaurants selling Banh Mee (baguettes) and Pho (soup).

To kill some time, head down to the river to view a memorable sunset.

Click here to book the Than Nga Hotel

Highway 18:
The road from Attapeu Township to the waterfalls is just over 60 km of dirt. The road is elevated above the surrounding landscape, so it doesn’t get washed out during the rainy season.

However, for most of the way, it’s covered in loose gravel, which makes traveling on a scooter a definite accident hazard if you’re doing more than 40 km/h. For this reason, the trip will take at least two hours, and possibly more with refueling and drink stops.

Note:To ensure you have enough fuel for the return to Attapeu, or the ride up to Paksong, it’s recommended you refuel in Sanamxai (approximately 34 km from Attapeu).

The turn-off to the waterfalls is just a few kilometers further on from Sanamxai—immediately over a bridge and on the right—and takes you through Hin Lat, an area devastated by the dam burst in 2018.

Click here for directions from Attapeu to Sae-pha Waterfall

Hin Lat Village:
The road to the waterfall runs through a deserted village with a tragic tale to tell. On July 23rd, 2018, a dam that had been constructed at the headwaters of the Xepian River, high up on the Bolaven Plateau, burst due to overflow erosion.

A massive surge of water raced down the canyon, wiping out all that lay in its path—including Hin Lat Village. Four years later, the place is a ghost town. All that remains are the empty shells of the houses, being slowly consumed by the encroaching jungle.

Billboard:
Approximately 6 km further on from Hin Lat Village, you’ll see a large billboard on the right, indicating the direction to the falls.

Saepha Waterfall:
This is the biggest waterfall in the area, and at peak flow, is only surpassed by the falls at the Four Thousand Islands. Prior to COVID, local entrepreneurs had attempted to set up tourist facilities—such as bungalows, restaurants, and restrooms—nearby. The abandoned, dilapidated buildings tell the story of the ongoing effects of the COVID era on the Laos tourism industry.

Few Visitors:
These days, the only visitors are locals who come for an hour or so, get their selfies, and depart. The road through the abandoned tourist facilities down to the parking area above the falls is the only one in the area that has been sealed—an indication, perhaps, of future hope for the site.

From the parking area, a rocky dirt track leads down to a sandstone plateau at the base of the falls. Those coming in four-wheeled vehicles make the walk. With an off-road bike, there’s no problem riding down to the plateau.

Saeponglai Waterfall:
This is another impressive waterfall, located approximately 10 km upstream from Saepha. Getting there from Saepha involves another patience-testing ride up a muddy track.

While still an impressive sight, Saeponglai is smaller and less spectacular than Saepha. Given the condition of the track, very few sightseers make it to this waterfall.

Click here for directions from Saepha to Saeponglai