The team, ready to hit the river for an epic adventure
Video highlights of the trip: YOUTUBE LINK
Click this LINK to download your Xebangfai Loop Guide
Exploring Laos: A Kayaking Adventure on the Xebangfai River
An Epic Adventure: In December 2019, I embarked on a once-in-a-lifetime adventure—a 60 km kayaking expedition along the Xebangfai River in Khammouane Province, Central Laos. Nestled in a pristine wilderness, the journey took us through breathtaking landscapes skirting the edge of HIN NAMMO NATIONAL PARK and culminating at the magnificent XEBANGFAI CAVE, the world’s largest river cave. This thrilling adventure was organized by Mr. Terry Bolger, a noted caving consultant for the Lao Government, and expertly guided by Green Discovery Laos (GDL).
The Team
- Terry Bolger (Laos & USA)
- Martin Lenk (Laos & Germany)
- Tatsunori Yanagimoto (Japan)
- Nick Vastrad (Laos & Belgium)
- Mark Jones (Thailand & Australia)
- Kong (Laos)
- Eng (Laos)
Spectacular scenery in the Hin Nammo National Park
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SALOMON HIKING BOOTS CASCADE HIKING POLES EARTH PAK WATERPROOF BACK PACKS
INTRAFIT HIKING GLOVES TURNONSPORTS HIKING COMPASS FENIX RECHARGEABLE HEADLAMPS
PETZL SAFETY HELMETS FENIX HIGH POWERED FLASHLIGHTS SURVIVE FIRST AID KITS
Day One: The Road Less Traveled
Camping at La Boy Crossing: Our team of seven, including local guides Kong and Eng, departed from Thakhek to the starting point, Laboy Crossing. The 80 km dirt road was grueling, taking three hours to traverse. Arriving late, we camped at the crossing, then visited Laboy Village to see remnants of the HO CHI MINH TRAIL, including historic bomb casings. As night fell, local women showcased their resilience by fishing in the cold river, revealing the hardships and strength of village life.
Our campsite at the Laboy Crossing
Day Two: Into the Wild
A tough first day on the river: Awakening to a chilly morning, we organized our gear and set off on the river. The first day of kayaking proved challenging as Terry and I struggled with flipping in rapids, which unfortunately ruined my still camera. Despite the early setbacks, the stunning scenery of Hin Nammo National Park kept spirits high. A 12 km paddle ended at the mouth of a gorge, where we set up camp, grateful for warmth and camaraderie.
Pulling over to set up camp at the end of day two
Day Three: A Test of Endurance
Our Toughest Day: Our goal this day was ambitious—covering over 30 km. We faced fewer rapids but the distance tested our endurance. The breathtaking views and the mingling with locals in riverside villages enriched the journey. By evening, our muscles were sore yet our spirits lifted, completed with schnapps by the campfire.
Our campsite for day two on the river
Day Four: Through the Karst Gorge
The Hin Nammo Gorge: The most challenging stretch awaited—navigating the narrow, rock-filled Karst Gorge. The fierce rapids were daunting, demanding precise teamwork. Despite the grueling efforts, our spirits soared with each successful pass. Remarkable teamwork, especially our guides Kong and Eng, made the daunting task achievable. As the day closed, we pitched camp near the cave entrance, a sense of accomplishment widespread.
The start of the Karst Gorge
Our fantastic campsite for the final night
Day Five: Conquering the Xebangfai Cave
The Magnificent River Cave: Our final day began with a mix of anticipation and familiarity as the world’s largest river cave awaited. Inside, the rapids were full from recent rainfall, speeding our passage. The sheer scale and majesty of the cave are indescribable. Midday, we paused at the Rim Pools, reflecting on the journey’s majesty. By afternoon, we emerged victorious, having conquered this epic expedition.
Just inside the entry point to Xe Bangfai Cave
The massive upstream entrance of Xe Bangfai Cave
Conclusion: This Laos kayaking adventure, maneuvering through challenging rapids and serene gorges, highlighted not only the natural beauty of Laos but also the enduring spirits of both locals and adventurers. A hearty thanks to our amazing guides and team members whose camaraderie turned a challenging expedition into a magical journey.
Click this LINK to download your Thakhek Loop Guide
Safe travels,
Mega.
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