The Plain of Jars sites are world heritage listed with UNESCO
Discovering Phonsavan: Laos’ Hidden Gem with a Rich, Tumultuous Past
The Plain of Jars: Situated in the heart of Northern Laos, PHONSAVAN stands as the quiet capital of XIANGKHOUANG PROVICE. Unlike popular destinations such as Luang Prabang and Vang Vieng, this off-the-beaten-path town receives far fewer tourists. Its remote location, not being on major tourist routes, deters many travelers. However, for adventurous explorers willing to venture onto less traveled roads, Phonsavan promises a wealth of history, striking landscapes, and cultural significance.
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The landscape around Xiangkhouang Province features broad plains and medium sized peaks
The Journey to Phonsavan
Travel Options: Located to the east of Luang Prabang and Vang Vieng, Phonsavan is in the middle of Laos’ mountainous terrain. Traveling there by bus can be an arduous eight-hour journey over rugged mountain roads, making it a challenge for most travelers. Alternatively, flying from Vientiane with Lao Airlines costs less than $60 and offers a swift, comfortable trip.
A typical street scene in downtown Phonsavan
The Troubled History of Xiangkhouang
Heavy Bombing: Phonsavan sits atop the historically significant Xiangkhouang Plateau, which sadly holds the distinction of being the most heavily bombed place on Earth. During the 1960s and 70s, this area served as a crucial conduit — the Ho Chi Minh Trail — facilitating the movement of North Vietnamese military personnel and supplies to South Vietnam. Consequently, relentless bombing campaigns by the US Air Force scarred the landscape with thousands of bomb craters, a haunting reminder of the area’s turbulent past.
Today, visitors notice bomb craters dotting the landscape as they explore the surroundings. Many local sites exhibit war paraphernalia, such as the CRATERS RESTAURANT—an establishment with a striking wall decorated with upright bombs, symbolizing both the destruction and resilience of the region.
The entrance to Craters Restaurant in Phonsavan
The Mines Advisory Group: Clearing the Land
Bomb Clearing: Phonsavan’s landscape is dotted with unexploded ordnance (UXO), remnants of past conflicts. The Mines Advisory Group (MAG) works tirelessly to clear these hazardous remnants. Their presence is notable, particularly outside the Cranky-T Restaurant, which serves the best coffee and western dishes in town.
An example of the bomb clearing around Phonsavan, by the MAG organisation
The Plateau’s Unique Climate and Geography
A Cooler Climate: Rising approximately 1,000 meters above sea level, the broad Xiangkhouang Plateau spans 20 kilometers across. Coming from the humid Mekong plains, travelers immediately notice the cool mornings and dry atmosphere, especially in November and January when frost often coats the ground. During the dry season, dust clouds rise along unpaved roads, so riding a motorbike with a dust mask is highly recommended.
Pine forests a feature of the cooler climate in Xiangkhouang Province
The Plain of Jars: A UNESCO Wonder
Megalithic Sites: The primary allure of Phonsavan is the UNESCO-protected PLAIN OF JARS. These megalithic sites, composed of sandstone jars weighing up to six tonnes, are scattered around the plateau. Sites 1, 2, and 3 are the most accessible, with MAG-cleared safe pathways for tourists. Jars Site 1, just 10 km from town, is the most visited, though sites 2 and 3 offer equally captivating experiences with fewer crowds.
The Plain of Jars sites are popular sightseeing attractions
Exploring Phu Keng Mountain and Historical Sites
The Jars Quarry: PHU KENG MOUNTAIN is not only famous for its QUARRY but also for the SECRET TUNNEL at its peak. Hiking to the top reveals a change in temperature and a pine tree-laden landscape reminiscent of Europe. The Secret Tunnel, constructed by PATHET LAO FORCES, offers an adventurous walk requiring a flashlight.
An unfinished jar at jars quarry site
The secret tunnel, used by Pathet Lao Forces, on Phu Keng Mountain
The Iconic Plain of Jars: Megalithic Wonders
Visiting the Jars Sites: The primary attraction in Phonsavan is undoubtedly the Plain of Jars sites. These are UNESCO World Heritage Sites featuring mysterious, ancient stone vessels weighing up to six tonnes. Carved from single sandstone blocks, these jars are scattered across several locations on the plateau.
Jars Site 1: The closest to town, just 10 km away, is the most popular site. With over 300 jars, this site features a small cave, used as shelter during bombing raids, and remains enveloped by bomb craters. This is testament to the area’s war-torn history. Entry costs 30,000 Kip for foreigners.
Site one is the biggest with more than 300 jars
Discovering History: The Small Cave and Resilient Jars of Phonsavan
A bombing shelter: One of the most intriguing features here is the small cave situated near the largest concentration of jars. During the turbulent war years of the 1960s and 70s, this cave provided crucial shelter from relentless bombing raids. As you approach the cave, you immediately notice the landscape dotted with countless bomb craters.
A bomb crater, in front of the cave shelter, at Jars site one
Bombing Damage: From the far side of the largest jar site, a dirt trail winds its way up to the top of a nearby peak. Along the trail, travelers encounter more signs of war’s lingering presence: damaged and partially cratered jars sit amidst the scorched earth. Visitors are surprised by intact the jars remain, despite the bombs that landed directly beside them.
A damaged jar, in front of the bomb crater at site one
Jars Sites 2 & 3: Located 25–27 km from Phonsavan, these sites are less crowded and more scenic. Site 2, in particular, offers larger jars and lush woods with panoramic views. Site 3 involves a walk through rice paddies and a small village, with safety fences and marked pathways cleared by MAG.
Larger jars are a feature of site number two
Final Thoughts
While Phonsavan might seem remote area to access, its rich history and profound landscapes, make it a rewarding stop. Exploring the Plain of Jars, understanding the region’s wartime past, leave visitors with a deep sense of respect and awe.
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